Graham wrote:Hey Paul, that is a beautifully-setting sail. I'd be interested to know what your camber is. I am interested in the relationship between camber and displacement, and what people like Arne, Paul Thompson etc, think is the ideal ratio. I'm envious, looking at all these beautiful junk sails. I'm looking for a cheap, suitable, fibreglass boat between 26-28' (8-9m), with moderate displacement, as I do not think my current boat is right for the project.
Camber and sail area versus displacement.
Graham, I cannot say that I have found that ideal general ratio between camber and displacement. I used to say that heavy displacement boats should have more camber than the others, but these days I am not so sure. Maybe on auxiliary rigs mainly meant for reaching and running...
For my own boats I have settled on 8% (real, measured) camber, as this has proven to both be close-winded and easy to keep in that groove between luffing and stalling. In addition, this modest camber (compared to genoas with 12-15%) works well as the wind picks up. Remember, the camber in a junksail cannot be adjusted under way. What can be easily adjusted is the sail area, so I generally rig generously. This extra sail area gives a nice long luff (including the 60-70° head) for improved upwind performance, but also spreads out a big nice area for running before.
Then, while the Bermudan sailors flatten their sails in rising winds, I drop a panel (..or three...).
Paul S. has demonstrated this beyond any doubt with his generously rigged Maxi. That sail was originally meant for a much heavier boat.
Soo, if I after all dare present a rig size and camber strategy, it may look about like this:
· Decide how tall and heavy mast(s) the boat can carry in the conditions it is likely to meet. The answer depends on what material the mast is to be made of. This again depends on what is available at a tolerable cost. I try to keep the mast below 3% of the boat’s weight.
· Then, rig as big a sail as possible.
· As said, I stick with the 8% camber in the lower panels, as this is easy to make with the barrel cut method (plus Amateur Method B). The top panels are made progressively flatter, but never completely flat (..the top panel on Paul’s Maxi has a 44mm Round at both the yard and top batten...).
I hope this makes some sense...
Cheers,
Arne