BOBTAIL - tacking

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  • 08 Aug 2012 11:47
    Reply # 1041786 on 1038349
    Deleted user
    Declan McKinney wrote:Chris, you might try positioning the boom aft a little using the tack parrel.

    Hi Deckan, I tried that still  not very good .... when I pt the mast back on the rake aft was a little smaller (I tried different wedges) so I might reposition it fyrther aft. Thanks !!
  • 08 Aug 2012 11:44
    Reply # 1041785 on 1035675
    Deleted user
    Robert Tracy wrote:I have simular trouble try . the engine .   more speed lay of the wind a bit get more speed then try a quick swing over . or gibe tighten up on the sheet  a bit as she goes through .


    Hi Robert,

    She tacks OK with the engine byt my aim is to avoid having the engine on if I can! (start stop is one answer) ... I will have to play arond a bit more methinks!!! thanks

  • 07 Aug 2012 15:31
    Reply # 1041050 on 1035596
        P/S forgot to mention Chris two sheets on the boom ala jib hold  the sail  against the wind then loose it when she goes through , this is done on some pointy  lazy  sail boats ,I know its not cosha but it might save you climbing all over the boat . when you are single handed  . all the best 
  • 07 Aug 2012 15:15
    Reply # 1041039 on 1035596
    Chris , my boat will tack if Im doing over 3 kts , but I think Annie mentioned holding the sail against the wind once she the boat I mean reaches the center of the wind .      This helps the boat around which Ive done once on experiment , but I would advise you to hang onto something strong  just in case, my hand rails go all around the boat and will put up with this type of action .
  • 04 Aug 2012 20:06
    Reply # 1038621 on 1038349
    Deleted user
    Declan McKinney wrote:Chris, you might try positioning the boom aft a little using the tack parrel.

    Hi Declan.... will try that.... many thanks!!
  • 04 Aug 2012 20:05
    Reply # 1038620 on 1035675
    Deleted user
    Robert Tracy wrote:I have simular trouble try . the engine .   more speed lay of the wind a bit get more speed then try a quick swing over . or gibe tighten up on the sheet  a bit as she goes through .

    Hi Robert... It works fine with a bit of "iron sails" so maybe thats inevitable... thanks for the othet tips!! cheers..
  • 04 Aug 2012 19:59
    Reply # 1038617 on 1038420
    Deleted user
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

                                                                          Stavanger, Saturday

    Chris

    I think you are asking for a lot when you want that hull with its tall superstructure to tack - with any rig. Maybe it would be better to redefine your boat as a motor vessel with an aux. rig? There is nothing wrong with that; I think that is an interesting and much over-looked concept. After all, most "full-blooded" sailboats are motored to windward unless they are racing. If the sail on your boat can be made to do the job in the 180° zone from beam reach to beam reach, and in a pinch even close-reach 60° from the wind, then the rig may save lots of fuel and also get you out of trouble if the engine quits.

    Here are some details I would have looked at and maybe modified (cheapest jobs first)

    Make sure that the sail balance is right. If you have lee helm when close-reaching or fully close-hauled, then shorten the tack parrel and haul in on the luff hauling parrel(s) to move the sail aft.

    Improve the (undersize?) rudder by fitting an end plate to its lower end, like here. Looks trivial, but it really improves steering.

    I bet your propeller is a big, fixed 3-blade one. This both robs speed under sail and also impairs the waterflow over the rudder. If you replace it with a feathering blade Kiwi propeller, it will improve both sailing speed and steering, and I hear that boats also backs better with the Kiwi prop.

    It appears that your sail is flat. Apart from generally producing less drive, the flat sail’s biggest handicap is that it makes tacking difficult. My first junk sail was flat and even though it was very big and fitted to a real sailboat, I still had to take care when tacking to make it. If your boat were mine, I would give her a sail optimised for reaching with a camber/chord ratio of 10 – 12% to get maximum drive out of the moderate sail area. I recently drew an aux. JR for a friend’s motor-skøyte (with a big one-lunger engine). Unfortunately his family council refused to put it on the 2012 budget, but maybe next year..

    Anyway, good luck!

    Arne

    PS: If someone in your family can use a sewing machine, you can easily make a cambered panel sail yourself at a much lower cost than that Kiwi propeller. You will only need floor space to loft one panel at a time, so you don't have to rent a dance hall to do it. I could give you a hand in sketching up the sail to get the camber needed.

     

    Hi Arne,

    I agree aboyt the motor sailor approach... its what I aimed for in the 1st place!! I have ysed tapered inserts on the battens to indyce a aerofoil camber... seem OK ...I am very interested in the  comments regards the rydder byt the link did'nt work... any chance to email it ?


  • 04 Aug 2012 10:14
    Reply # 1038420 on 1035596
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

                                                                          Stavanger, Saturday

    Chris

    I think you are asking for a lot when you want that hull with its tall superstructure to tack - with any rig. Maybe it would be better to redefine your boat as a motor vessel with an aux. rig? There is nothing wrong with that; I think that is an interesting and much over-looked concept. After all, most "full-blooded" sailboats are motored to windward unless they are racing. If the sail on your boat can be made to do the job in the 180° zone from beam reach to beam reach, and in a pinch even close-reach 60° from the wind, then the rig may save lots of fuel and also get you out of trouble if the engine quits.

    Here are some details I would have looked at and maybe modified (cheapest jobs first)

    Make sure that the sail balance is right. If you have lee helm when close-reaching or fully close-hauled, then shorten the tack parrel and haul in on the luff hauling parrel(s) to move the sail aft.

    Improve the (undersize?) rudder by fitting an end plate to its lower end, like here. Looks trivial, but it really improves steering.

    I bet your propeller is a big, fixed 3-blade one. This both robs speed under sail and also impairs the waterflow over the rudder. If you replace it with a feathering blade Kiwi propeller, it will improve both sailing speed and steering, and I hear that boats also backs better with the Kiwi prop.

    It appears that your sail is flat. Apart from generally producing less drive, the flat sail’s biggest handicap is that it makes tacking difficult. My first junk sail was flat and even though it was very big and fitted to a real sailboat, I still had to take care when tacking to make it. If your boat were mine, I would give her a sail optimised for reaching with a camber/chord ratio of 10 – 12% to get maximum drive out of the moderate sail area. I recently drew an aux. JR for a friend’s motor-skøyte (with a big one-lunger engine). Unfortunately his family council refused to put it on the 2012 budget, but maybe next year..

    Anyway, good luck!

    Arne

    PS: If someone in your family can use a sewing machine, you can easily make a cambered panel sail yourself at a much lower cost than that Kiwi propeller. You will only need floor space to loft one panel at a time, so you don't have to rent a dance hall to do it. I could give you a hand in sketching up the sail to get the camber needed.

    Last modified: 04 Aug 2012 10:32 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 04 Aug 2012 08:14
    Reply # 1038349 on 1035596
    Chris, you might try positioning the boom aft a little using the tack parrel.
  • 03 Aug 2012 11:20
    Reply # 1035675 on 1035596
    I have simular trouble try . the engine .   more speed lay of the wind a bit get more speed then try a quick swing over . or gibe tighten up on the sheet  a bit as she goes through .
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