Pacific Spray - Booms, Battens and Sheeting

  • 05 Dec 2011 22:37
    Reply # 766511 on 765976
    Paul Thompson wrote:
    Robert Prince wrote:The battens we had were identical to Fantail's, being Ullrich Alluminuim UA7420 drawn tube with drawn tube sleeving at the joints.

    Rob and Maren


    Well Rob, then you know the answer. Annie's sail is 317 ft.sq. and her boat is under 3 tons. The 38mm battens that she has are adequate for the job on her boat. No ways are they going to do the job for you when the lady (your Spray) puts her shoulder in and gets down to some serious work.


    Hi Paul,

    Good point, we agree.

    In defence of Pacific Spray she does appear to be easily driven, despite her weight and the wooden masts take a bit of tension off the sails. We agree that the battens are too light but maybe the wooden booms are too bendy? Have you any thoughts on alloy boom sizes?

    Rob and Maren

  • 05 Dec 2011 22:28
    Reply # 766506 on 766418
    David Tyler wrote:Rob,
    I have a vague recollection of noting, when we met aboard Pacific Spray, that the batten pocket were so small that they would only take 38mm battens. Do I remember correctly? If so, is the sailmaker going to put larger pockets on, or some other batten attachment method?


    Hi David,

    Your memory is perfect. The batten pockets can only fit 38mm battens. I can talk to the sailmaker again before he starts work but our thinking at the moment is to get the foresail working with the salvaged battens using the 38mm pockets. For the mainsail we are open to suggestions. The sailmaker is just adding 4 cringles for the extra sheet at this stage.

    Of the seven mainsail battens, 6 of them are over 5 metres, with the longest being 5780mm. This means sleeving the joints. Ullrich have a UA7410 drawn tube which we used before to sleeve the battens joints. Its a very good fit and like the UA7420 is 1.45mm wall thickness. There is no evidence of bending where the sleeving was situated. What do you think about putting the sleeve the whole length of the batten making a 2.9mm wall thickness for its whole length? This means we could use the existing pockets and all the alloy end caps.

    We like the alloy battens and are amazed how quick they are to repair or jury rig - some sleeving, a hand saw, a battery drill and a pop rivet gun. Could almost be done at sea.

    Rob and Maren

  • 05 Dec 2011 22:04
    Reply # 766488 on 766024
    TONY AND SALLY SUMMERS wrote:

    We too had problems on Ron Glas last summer. trying to gybe the reefed mainsail in a hurry when hit by a 40knot squall, resulted in the top three battens--  only 38mm alloy--- bending in spectacular style. We have since straightened them and sleeved the weak spots with alloy dinghy mast, which is is good so far, with a boat of 16 tons 38mm seems too light---  having said that Jock McLeod sailed her 100,000 miles plus across the north Atlantic with an extraordinary collection of battens,---  alloy, oregon. fibreglass---  all three materials in one sail at times!!

    It does occur to me that whilst the junk rig is famously easy to gybe in reasonable conditions with full sail up-- the friction in the multipart sheets give a nice slow gybe----  gybing a big  reefed sail in a wind is much more akin to gybing a gaffer. Because only part of the sheet system is in operation the braking effect is less and the big reefed bundle is heavy, cosequently an uncontrolled gybe is painful and damaging! The bundle is best hauled amidships and then released on the other gybe as softly as possible.---  obvious really, but in the heat of the moment.........      TONY &SALLY

     


    Hi Tony and Sally,

    We totally agree with your thoughts. We have been concerned about gybing when the wind is up. Once the boom starts to bend and sky upwards I have opted for going about, a much safer option. It almost seems as if the wooden boom bends quite easily but the battens above are stiffer until they bend or snap. I agree with everyone that they are too light, however.

    Rob and Maren

  • 05 Dec 2011 20:33
    Reply # 766418 on 765598
    Rob,
    I have a vague recollection of noting, when we met aboard Pacific Spray, that the batten pocket were so small that they would only take 38mm battens. Do I remember correctly? If so, is the sailmaker going to put larger pockets on, or some other batten attachment method?
  • 05 Dec 2011 11:55
    Reply # 766024 on 765598
    Deleted user

    We too had problems on Ron Glas last summer. trying to gybe the reefed mainsail in a hurry when hit by a 40knot squall, resulted in the top three battens--  only 38mm alloy--- bending in spectacular style. We have since straightened them and sleeved the weak spots with alloy dinghy mast, which is is good so far, with a boat of 16 tons 38mm seems too light---  having said that Jock McLeod sailed her 100,000 miles plus across the north Atlantic with an extraordinary collection of battens,---  alloy, oregon. fibreglass---  all three materials in one sail at times!!

    It does occur to me that whilst the junk rig is famously easy to gybe in reasonable conditions with full sail up-- the friction in the multipart sheets give a nice slow gybe----  gybing a big  reefed sail in a wind is much more akin to gybing a gaffer. Because only part of the sheet system is in operation the braking effect is less and the big reefed bundle is heavy, cosequently an uncontrolled gybe is painful and damaging! The bundle is best hauled amidships and then released on the other gybe as softly as possible.---  obvious really, but in the heat of the moment.........      TONY &SALLY

     

  • 05 Dec 2011 08:30
    Reply # 765976 on 765960
    Robert Prince wrote:The battens we had were identical to Fantail's, being Ullrich Alluminuim UA7420 drawn tube with drawn tube sleeving at the joints.

    Rob and Maren


    Well Rob, then you know the answer. Annie's sail is 317 ft.sq. and her boat is under 3 tons. The 38mm battens that she has are adequate for the job on her boat. No ways are they going to do the job for you when the lady (your Spray) puts her shoulder in and gets down to some serious work.
  • 05 Dec 2011 08:11
    Reply # 765960 on 765598

    Thanks everyone for the feedback - it has been quite overwhelming.

    The oregon boom was a top quality North American bit of wood. As Annie pointed out it certainly did bend and I guess it was too light. 

    Thank you David, for the advice on the mainsail sheeting - I'll do that. Today we took the sails to a local sailmaker for a couple of repairs and to get some cringles added for the extra sheetlet on the mainsail. From the array of bent and broken battens we have made 3 battens for the foresail, sleeving them together with bits of sleeve we had. The battens we had were identical to Fantail's, being Ullrich Alluminuim UA7420 drawn tube with drawn tube sleeving at the joints. Will complete the other 2 foresail battens tomorrow then shorten the main boom so that it fits where the foresail one was. Hopefully we will be sailing again with the foresail only, at no cost. This will give us time to look at better options for the battens and the booms. I'm not sure what the answer is at this stage.

    Rob and Maren

  • 05 Dec 2011 06:06
    Reply # 765903 on 765598
    Personally, I think life is to short for wooden battens. Doubly so if you have to work with second hand timber. If you are destitute and have no other options, well then yes. Otherwise, I'd make the effort to find alloy or carbon fibre ones.

    Annie's H8/T8 battens are good but the range of sizes is very limited here in NZ.
  • 05 Dec 2011 05:57
    Reply # 765901 on 765598
    Annie no disrespect to my Kiwi neighbours but NZ Oregon is rubbish. I'd look around for a timber salvage yard and see if they had any North American old growth kicking around.
  • 05 Dec 2011 03:38
    Reply # 765830 on 765598
    For Fantail, I managed to get drawn tubes 38.1 x 1.42 6063 H8, which apparently is is rotated as it leaves the die and therefore is very tough.  This was provided by Ullrich Aluminium.  However, wood is very forgiving and you could always get second-hand douglas fir floorboards and laminate them to the appropriate size - at least one up from PJR?  With or without glass.  I can't say I'm too impressed with the new Douglas Fir that is available in NZ.  Wooden battens are a lot easier to repair than metal ones and most people seem to break one sooner or later.  Alloy are generally lighter, of course.
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
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