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Pondering Seablossom's rig

  • 13 Mar 2013 19:33
    Quote
    Reply # 1241931 on 726309
    Deleted user
    Would that be number 2 counting from the top or the bottom?  Do I need a heavier spar for a "boom" or is that just another batten as somebody, maybe Slieve, has said in the past?
    Depending on its length (I need to measure) my existing yard may do.  It's wood and very heavy, but I'm rapidly approaching 20 grand in this ten thousand dollar boat and I'm getting stretched pretty thin.  I'd try to reuse my old battens but they're 1" plastic pipe, which I define as "not real."
    No need to translate to Imperial measurements.  I'm getting to where it's the Imperial, not the metric, that drives me crazy.  Google will do the conversion in the blink of an eye.
    Somewhere I failed to see the "b" dimension.  20 footers is what I can reasonably buy, so that will be it unless it seems necessary to go to 25 to get the extra inches for the one batten.
  • 13 Mar 2013 18:38
    Quote
    Reply # 1241896 on 1241784
    Anonymous member
    Jeff McFadden wrote: Paul, help me out here.  According to the way I see the drawings you sent me, 20 foot battens will just protrude from the batten pockets.  I'm translating back and forth between metric measurements on software I'm a rank rookie with, and the US vendor selling in our irrational local measurements... Is 20 feet right?

    Jeff, the sail width along the battens ("b") is 18'5" add 4" and you get a batten length of 18' 9" . Call that 19ft for all battens excepting the no. 2 batten which would be 20'2" (20ft would be fine if thats what you can get). I'd be inclined to give the no.2 batten a 1/8 wall or even better, go to 2inch and stay with the 1/8th wall.

    Feel free to email me direct when you need clarifying or assistance. Also let me know if you want me to re-dimension the drawing in imperial units.

    Contact me before you do/buy anything for the yard. Check Arne's write up's on Johanna's rig/sailmaking, they apply pretty much 100% to you.  Arne has pretty much sorted out all the issues for this version of the rig and you cannot go far wrong by following them.
    Last modified: 13 Mar 2013 18:45 | Anonymous member
  • 13 Mar 2013 16:59
    Quote
    Reply # 1241784 on 1241213
    Deleted user
    David Tyler wrote:
    Paul Thompson wrote:
    Jeff McFadden wrote:
    So today's question is, how thick do the walls need to be on 20 foot (6.9 meter), 1 1/2 inch (39 mm) OD aluminum tubes to make reliable battens? 

    Jeff, 1/4 inch is way over the top. 11/2" x 1/16" should be fine. and if you really want to be safe, go for 13/4". You could go for a 1/8" wall for the second batten from the top. You ideally want to use aluminum grade 6061 and a T6 temper. If you are forced to use T5 (as T6 can be difficult to get) you should definitely go for the bigger size and the 1/8 wall,
    If your battens are really going to be 20ft long, which is very long for that size of boat, then you're certainly going to be needing 1 3/4" x 1/16" tube, 6061T6.  But not more than that. Bigger diameter, thinner wall is always more cost effective, in terms of strength and stiffness per $ than smaller diameter and thicker wall. A batten is never going to need a 1/4" wall thickness.
    Paul, help me out here.  According to the way I see the drawings you sent me, 20 foot battens will just protrude from the batten pockets.  I'm translating back and forth between metric measurements on software I'm a rank rookie with, and the US vendor selling in our irrational local measurements... Is 20 feet right?
  • 13 Mar 2013 02:58
    Quote
    Reply # 1241213 on 1241078
    Anonymous member
    Paul Thompson wrote:
    Jeff McFadden wrote:
    So today's question is, how thick do the walls need to be on 20 foot (6.9 meter), 1 1/2 inch (39 mm) OD aluminum tubes to make reliable battens? 

    Jeff, 1/4 inch is way over the top. 11/2" x 1/16" should be fine. and if you really want to be safe, go for 13/4". You could go for a 1/8" wall for the second batten from the top. You ideally want to use aluminum grade 6061 and a T6 temper. If you are forced to use T5 (as T6 can be difficult to get) you should definitely go for the bigger size and the 1/8 wall,
    If your battens are really going to be 20ft long, which is very long for that size of boat, then you're certainly going to be needing 1 3/4" x 1/16" tube, 6061T6.  But not more than that. Bigger diameter, thinner wall is always more cost effective, in terms of strength and stiffness per $ than smaller diameter and thicker wall. A batten is never going to need a 1/4" wall thickness.
  • 12 Mar 2013 23:46
    Quote
    Reply # 1241078 on 1241011
    Anonymous member
    Jeff McFadden wrote:
    So today's question is, how thick do the walls need to be on 20 foot (6.9 meter), 1 1/2 inch (39 mm) OD aluminum tubes to make reliable battens? 

    Jeff, 1/4 inch is way over the top. 11/2" x 1/16" should be fine. and if you really want to be safe, go for 13/4". You could go for a 1/8" wall for the second batten from the top. You ideally want to use aluminum grade 6061 and a T6 temper. If you are forced to use T5 (as T6 can be difficult to get) you should definitely go for the bigger size and the 1/8 wall,
  • 12 Mar 2013 22:09
    Quote
    Reply # 1241011 on 726309
    Deleted user
    Ahoy, friends and neighbors.  Still alive and well here, recovering from a blue funk and snowed-in winter sulk.
    I just dropped about four hundred bucks on Odyssey III and am looking with some trepidation at some 600 for aluminum battens.  B. O. A. T.  Break Out Another Thousand.  Shudder.
    So today's question is, how thick do the walls need to be on 20 foot (6.9 meter), 1 1/2 inch (39 mm) OD aluminum tubes to make reliable battens?  The above price is for quarter inch (6.35mm) thick material.
    At these prices we're looking at 3 meter 2x4's, sawn into 6mm strips and scarphed for length into about a 40 mm rectangular section.  For the first couple years anyway.
  • 24 Dec 2012 00:19
    Quote
    Reply # 1165983 on 1165980
    Anonymous member
    David Tyler wrote: Yes, please. It will give me a starting point.
    Done :-)
  • 24 Dec 2012 00:10
    Quote
    Reply # 1165980 on 1165950
    Anonymous member
    Paul Thompson wrote:
    Jeff McFadden wrote:I must confess that the look of the Fantail sail is so attractive to my eye that it's worth extra consideration, and even extra work.

    True, the Fantail sail is a very attractive shape.

    David, I have the .dxf files for the rig I did for Jeff, amongst them is a hull profile. If you want, I can send them to you.
    Yes, please. It will give me a starting point.
  • 23 Dec 2012 23:02
    Quote
    Reply # 1165959 on 1165950
    Deleted user
    Paul Thompson wrote:
    Jeff McFadden wrote:I must confess that the look of the Fantail sail is so attractive to my eye that it's worth extra consideration, and even extra work.

    True, the Fantail sail is a very attractive shape.

    David, I have the .dxf files for the rig I did for Jeff, amongst them is a hull profile. If you want, I can send them to you.

    And it is to be noted that I planted the mast per Paul's design and drawings.
  • 23 Dec 2012 22:33
    Quote
    Reply # 1165950 on 1165887
    Anonymous member
    Jeff McFadden wrote:I must confess that the look of the Fantail sail is so attractive to my eye that it's worth extra consideration, and even extra work.

    True, the Fantail sail is a very attractive shape.

    David, I have the .dxf files for the rig I did for Jeff, amongst them is a hull profile. If you want, I can send them to you.
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