Redwing

  • 02 Jan 2013 23:08
    Reply # 1170621 on 1169695
    Gary Pick wrote:
    I was thinking of attaching the sail to the boom and yard then fitting the battens and parrels as I go.

    I fitted my sail on a calm day.  I started with the yard, and then raised a bit of sail, put in the batten, added the parrel, etc, etc, setting up the topping lifts as the end.  It was fun :-)

    I may have a problem with the polypropylene rope I've used for my halyard, in that it maybe a bit stiff for the 5:1 set up. Too much friction when lowering. I'll know when the sail is on anyway.
    Polyprop, in my experience, softens quite quickly with use and as it's a lot more slippery than polyester, should reduce the friction, if anything.  Are you using Silverstrand?  Hard to get here, but great stuff and lasts for years.
  • 02 Jan 2013 02:19
    Reply # 1170100 on 644008
    It's okay Paul, I open to ideas. I was looking at the photos I took yesterday and I came to the same idea regarding lengthening the tail on the deck block. The block on the lower cabin top is not attached to anything, it was just an idea I was trying out.
  • 01 Jan 2013 18:27
    Reply # 1169862 on 1169695
    Gary Pick wrote:
    Paul Thompson wrote:Looking good! Are you planning to assemble the sail on the boat? Because for a sail of Redwing's size, it's probably easier to assemble on land then just take the bundle down to the boat.

    BTW I'd run lines (halyard etc...) straight from the mast to the deadeyes that you put on the raised section of your coachroof and skip any attachment to the lower part.
    Do you mean say fitting turning blocks to the mast?
    I've skipped the deadeyes on the fo'ard cabin top.
    I was thinking of attaching the sail to the boom and yard then fitting the battens and parrels as I go.
    I may have a problem with the polypropylene rope I've used for my halyard, in that it maybe a bit stiff for the 5:1 set up. Too much friction when lowering. I'll know when the sail is on anyway.

    Gary, the way you've done (as far as I can make out from the photo's) is basically just fine. It's just (as far as I can see) you are running the halyard through a block on the lower cabin top and then through the bullseye on the upper cabin top. I'd lengthen the tail on your mast base block and run the halyard straight to the bullseye on the upper cabin top. It would also help with the interference that you are (it seems) getting from your fore hatch.

    You should always try to lead your lines in such a manner that you use the absolute minimum of blocks, bulleyes etc. You also want to keep your runs as straight as possible and your leads as fair as possible. Every deviation from the above adds friction and it is accumulative (and costs).

    Not trying to tell you what to do, just passing on what I have learned (mostly the hard way), If you sail a gaffer with minimal winches you learn very quickly and junk rigs are much the same in that sense.
  • 01 Jan 2013 10:46
    Reply # 1169695 on 1169669
    Paul Thompson wrote:Looking good! Are you planning to assemble the sail on the boat? Because for a sail of Redwing's size, it's probably easier to assemble on land then just take the bundle down to the boat.

    BTW I'd run lines (halyard etc...) straight from the mast to the deadeyes that you put on the raised section of your coachroof and skip any attachment to the lower part.
    Do you mean say fitting turning blocks to the mast?
    I've skipped the deadeyes on the fo'ard cabin top.
    I was thinking of attaching the sail to the boom and yard then fitting the battens and parrels as I go.
    I may have a problem with the polypropylene rope I've used for my halyard, in that it maybe a bit stiff for the 5:1 set up. Too much friction when lowering. I'll know when the sail is on anyway.
  • 01 Jan 2013 07:58
    Reply # 1169669 on 644008
    Looking good! Are you planning to assemble the sail on the boat? Because for a sail of Redwing's size, it's probably easier to assemble on land then just take the bundle down to the boat.

    BTW I'd run lines (halyard etc...) straight from the mast to the deadeyes that you put on the raised section of your coachroof and skip any attachment to the lower part.
    Last modified: 01 Jan 2013 08:10 | Anonymous member
  • 01 Jan 2013 05:36
    Reply # 1169645 on 644008
    Boom with Arne style topping lifts in place with the yard nestled on top. The halyard is attached but no parrels fitted as yet. Bit of a problem with halyard running over a corner of the fore hatch but some fix will come to mind. I'll put a photo in profile album.
  • 20 Dec 2012 09:56
    Reply # 1163867 on 1163562
    Gary Pick wrote:Finding suitably thick stainless for the base plates is the problem. None in stock and I only need two bits 80mm x 80mm. I'm thinking of buying two stanchion bases and using those.
    That's what we used on Badger and they were just fine.
  • 20 Dec 2012 02:10
    Reply # 1163562 on 644008
    Picked up the alloy tubes for the battens yesterday and I now have them all cut to length with eyebolts each end. There's a bit of a hold up with the mainsheet horse. Finding suitably thick stainless for the base plates is the problem. None in stock and I only need two bits 80mm x 80mm. I'm thinking of buying two stanchion bases and using those.
  • 17 Dec 2012 02:55
    Reply # 1161335 on 644008
    Thank you David.
  • 16 Dec 2012 20:48
    Reply # 1161150 on 1160753
    Gary Pick wrote:Redwing now has a mast. I have to say I judged the tolerances pretty close, even without the collar I wouldn't have needed wedges.
    http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?88318-Redwing-update&p=3626114#post3626114
    I had a look through the photos, Gary, and as they say back in Hampshire, UK:
    "Proper job!"
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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