Anonymous wrote:

It is only loosely related to this thread, but some years ago I built a rocket stove oven for my former Scarlett. The top plate of this wood stove got 250 - 300 °C hot, depending on the wood used, and we used it oftenly to boil water, cook noodles, etc...

I wrote this article on my blog, have a look:

https://fiery-sails.de/scarletts-reise/boat-rocket-stove-raketenofen-fur-scarlett/

(you can switch to english in the lower left corner)

Great work, good to see a proper Rocket stove that has the insulated chamber and downdraught. 
i see you also use pellets, a good option.  Can you show a photo of how the feeder works. 
ps.  I have a small camping wood stove, basically a fire box with quite a tall chimney.  It definitely is a lot less efficient than your Rocket stove.  

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Not wishing to hijack this thread, but as it's about stoves and cookers, I wonder if anyone could suggest a readily available material to use in a trangia to soak up the alcohol, in a similar manner to the Origo does.

Maybe it wouldn't work in the Trangia, but it would help prevent spills if it did.

I would imagine ceramic fibre would be better and I will test this, I have ceramic fibre and some trangia burners. I reckon it won't work though as the Trangia keeps burning until the last drop of ethanol, by which stage the flame would be below the top of the fibre which would then blacken and clog up. The Origo uses ceramic fibre, the Compass version uses cheaper rock wool with a thin layer of ceramic fibre on top. I can post a sample of ceramic fibre to you David D if it looks useful. I think a wider, larger volume, Trangia type burner would be great, can anyone here weld one up from Stainless Steel or brazed brass?

I've find this video about modifying a Trangia burner.

The video focus about efficiency but any boiling test has been done.

Despite that, the modification presented could be a good idea for soaking up alcohol and avoid spilling....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=580cPNYvlks 

Anonymous wrote:

Not wishing to hijack this thread, but as it's about stoves and cookers, I wonder if anyone could suggest a readily available material to use in a trangia to soak up the alcohol, in a similar manner to the Origo does.

Maybe it wouldn't work in the Trangia, but it would help prevent spills if it did.

I would imagine ceramic fibre would be better and I will test this, I have ceramic fibre and some trangia burners. I reckon it won't work though as the Trangia keeps burning until the last drop of ethanol, by which stage the flame would be below the top of the fibre which would then blacken and clog up. The Origo uses ceramic fibre, the Compass version uses cheaper rock wool with a thin layer of ceramic fibre on top. I can post a sample of ceramic fibre to you David D if it looks useful. I think a wider, larger volume, Trangia type burner would be great, can anyone here weld one up from Stainless Steel or brazed brass?

Some fotos of the Salsa/Mamba burner:

foto 1 & 2:

the fuel runs through the lower, long pipe, which goes through the actual burner. Then into the thin, vertical pipe, which includes a nozzle in the top region. This nozzles faces into the open, upper, vertical tube. Which then leads into the upper burner part and distributes into the burner nozzle ring.

foto 3:

filling the preheat dish with cold, liquid ethanol from the nozzle. You csn see the stream of liquid flowing out.

foto 4: 

preheating

foto 5:

steady burning after preheating, ready for cooking. The valve is fully opened. Note: there is no liquid flowing out of the nozzle anymore, only gasified ethanol. I guess the aim of that nozzle-into-open-tube-design is to generate a burnable mix of gasified ethanol and oxygen.

My hypothesis is that a proportion of fuel arriving at the burner is pre-vaporised, having evaporated as it flows through the hot pipe to the burner. What's supposed to happen is that alcohol arrives at the burner in liquid form. In pre-gasified form, there's simply less fuel there.

I agree about the vaporising inside the hot pipe. However, if the burner was being preheated sufficiently, there is only gas coming out of the feeding nozzle. It is actually a quite interesting design, as the gasified fuel is mixed with air after it exits the feeding nozzle before it is lead through the actual burner and then burns just like a gas stove... I will try to take some good fotos.

One more thought: Is there room for pressing a heat shield between the stove and the tank?

Unfortunately not... Or I don't see it. 

I tried my idea leaving the nipple cap on, and also tried to add some slight pressure from my lungs, as you mentioned, Arne. No difference observable, neither way.

If I remember correctly, that stove transports the fuel to the burner via a wick.

That would be quite interesting, indeed, Toni! It would explain a bit, why slightly pressurising the tank didn't show a significant effect. However, it would not explain that when the valve is opened in cold state to fill the preheating dish, there is some fluid flowing out rather fast. Too fast for a wick, I would guess. Did you open it up once?

Regarding the HPV Salsa, would it be a possibility to fit a remote tank to help keep the fuel cooler and well away from the heat from the burner?

Sure, but it would mean some replumbing and soldering of that bronze fuel line... A rather invasive surgery. Before taking such a measure, I would like to understand what is really happening when its burning longer then some minutes.

does the grease nipple have its spring loaded ball valve still within its body?

I of course removed the tiny ball and spring before installing the nipple ;-)