Junk rig sail size for 3 mtr scow bow thats nearly built

  • 27 Oct 2026 11:27
    Reply # 13761455 on 13760898
    Anonymous wrote:

    Hi Andrew !

    The simplified "shelf foot" method is described here (see the PDF file at the end of the post dated 16 Jun 2022 18:43). Last winter, I used it to sew the main panels for a Split Junk Rig sail for my 2.5-meter folding boat (post dated 07 may 2026). For the top panel, I used the method provided to you by David.

    Regards - Jan
    Thabk younso much for the advise, ive been onto carbon profiles, and that was my choice on diameters, so thank you so much.
  • 26 Oct 2026 18:38
    Reply # 13760898 on 13753050

    Hi Andrew !

    The simplified "shelf foot" method is described here (see the PDF file at the end of the post dated 16 Jun 2022 18:43). Last winter, I used it to sew the main panels for a Split Junk Rig sail for my 2.5-meter folding boat (post dated 07 may 2026). For the top panel, I used the method provided to you by David.

    Regards - Jan
    Last modified: 26 Oct 2026 19:40 | Anonymous member
  • 26 Oct 2026 11:49
    Reply # 13760603 on 13753224
    Andrew wrote:

    Thank you very much, im not liking having the way that those batten pockets are sewn on with the pull on the stitching. Can the batten pockets be sewn on as per a normal fully battered sail, with the broadseaming on the lower panel and overlapped to have the batten centrally within the sail..... or am I overthinking/ complicating the design ??

    I suggest that you cut the panels from one cloth, at this size of sail. Try to get the threadline as close as you can to parallel to the luff and leech, and I'd use a half-size version of this to add camber:
    or a shelf foot, at the top and bottom of each panel, rather than the simpler barrel cut (Arne is writing for first time sailmakers, and if you already have sailmaking skills, there are more sophisticated ways available to you).
     
    The dressmaker's seam is the easiest way to join these panels, with one panel laid on top of the other. I've sailed across oceans with sails sewn this way, without problems.

    Having joined the panels, there are various different ways of adding pockets. Here are some:
    but you can certainly add them with an "omega" kind of cross section, so that they stand proud on the side of the sail next to the mast.
    Last modified: 26 Oct 2026 11:49 | Anonymous member
  • 26 Oct 2026 10:58
    Reply # 13760584 on 13753050

    I have experience of using CFRP battens, pullwound tubes made by https://carbonfibreprofiles.com/collections/tubes

    Assuming that you use one of Arne's planforms (which I would recommend for your first junk sail), that the sail area is somewhere around 10 sq m, and that the AR is somewhere around 2, then the batten length will be around 2.5m, and sheeting will not be too difficult on a 3m LOA hull. I'd be content with a 25mm x 22mm CFRP pullwound tube for the lower battens, but since you're bound for high latitudes, the upper two sheeted battens could well be 25mm x 20mm, for greater peace of mind in bad weather. The yard might be 50m x 46mm pullwound tube.

  • 23 Oct 2026 20:54
    Reply # 13758485 on 13753050

    Ok thank you, im just about to order the battens, and am thinking 25mm OD x 20mm ID carbon tube, Do you think thats a good idea or not ??.

    thank you

  • 19 Oct 2026 23:01
    Reply # 13753447 on 13753050
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Andrew, yes, that can be done, be my guest.
    May I just inform you that this primitive 'Amateur method B' has turned out to hold perfectly well in many cambered panel sails since the loads are taken up by the boltrope around them

    Arne

    PS: Ordinary sailmaking methods, as used in fully battened sails, will not produce the camber you want. The stiff battens should rather be regarded as booms and each batten panel as a separate sail. That is why I cut each lower panel to have a barrel profile. This also results in very little load in that tailor-style panel-joining seam. I didn't expect the first sail I made this way for my 23' Malena to last for more than one summer of easy sailing. However, that sail only fell apart 15 years later, and then because the fabric died from sun-rot.
    The seams were still fine.
    http://goo.gl/KIOwkH


    Last modified: 20 Oct 2026 08:56 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 19 Oct 2026 20:57
    Reply # 13753224 on 13753050

    Thank you very much, im not liking having the way that those batten pockets are sewn on with the pull on the stitching. Can the batten pockets be sewn on as per a normal fully battered sail, with the broadseaming on the lower panel and overlapped to have the batten centrally within the sail..... or am I overthinking/ complicating the design ??

  • 19 Oct 2026 20:25
    Reply # 13753180 on 13753050
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Andrew, to me,
    that sail looks ok, but I have two suggestions.

    1. Cut the sail so that much of the leech is parallel with the luff; that is vertical. This just about eliminates the chance of having the batten ends catching the sheets.
    2. Make the sail with cambered panels. 
    Good luck,
    Arne

    PS: here is how you could make the sail:
    http://goo.gl/3P0n89
    Last modified: 19 Oct 2026 20:27 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 19 Oct 2026 19:29
    Reply # 13753078 on 13753050

    It cut the rig off the other image.

    1 file
  • 19 Oct 2026 19:16
    Message # 13753050

    Hi there,

    Im getting towards the last few panels being put onto a boat i've had designed. With the winter coming in NW uk, and know the epoxy will be put away soon, but I can now make the sail (I have a full sail loft, but haven't ever made a junk rig sail beforehand).

    I also have a full workshop, so any suggestions on best batten options, hinged or not can be made.

    Ive had a spar maker construct the 72mm carbon mast..

    So I would be interested in your thoughts re the size etc.

    5 files
    Last modified: 19 Oct 2026 19:20 | Anonymous member