Tyvek and other building wraps for experimental sails

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  • 06 Oct 2025 15:21
    Reply # 13549423 on 13546768

    Thanks, Eric. Let us know when you get back from the bottom of the globe. I have a few more questions, but I don't want to waste your valuable time or mess up Max's thread.

    Last modified: 06 Oct 2025 21:04 | Anonymous member
  • 06 Oct 2025 12:40
    Reply # 13549379 on 13546768
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Bonsoir

    The glu lasted for a month under rather intensive sailing some 8 hours a day I think.

    At the end the glued parts were quite fit with no tendancy to unglue...

    This glue is an industrial product, so, I suppose that it should last quite a long time.

    3M 927

    I also tried without success other way of gluing as Sicaflex or double side supermarket gluing tape... I'm afraid, I forgot to register these failures. 

    I've used massivelly grommets on Tyvex. It is not that easy because if you hammer it to hard, the grommet will poncture the Tyvex and you will have a hole in the tyvex and a grommet asside. The easy way of doing it is to have a triple seem to support the grommets. You should not use grommets with teeths because they poncture the Tyvex, just use plain cylindrical ones.

    To attache the wishbone battens at the leach i reinforced the area by a patch of tyvex glued around the Leech with 3M 927. 

    Eric

  • 05 Oct 2025 17:32
    Reply # 13549216 on 13546768

    I'm very curious how long time the 3M 927 tape Eric used lasted. If it's truly strong and durable, it could speed up sail construction significantly.

    In my sail, double-sided tape from the supermarket no longer holds at all, but I was still able to use the sail without any problems because, after sewing the darts on the leech and luff,the grommets and string on the fabric folds along the panel were strong enough to hold the panel along the batten despite the darts were unglued along the panel.

    I think Maxime might use grommets to attach the Tyvek sail along the batten, which would make it easier to replace a damaged panel while sailing (see picture)

    Maxime, it would be a good idea to carefully reinforce the darts on the leech and luff of each panel. First of all, they come loose most quickly on the leech, and this certainly doesn't improve performance when sailing upwind ;)


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    Last modified: 06 Oct 2025 12:27 | Anonymous member
  • 04 Oct 2025 23:47
    Reply # 13549111 on 13546768

    If Tyvek roof membrane is what we are talking about – you can buy it by the meter here. (English version available)

    Last modified: 04 Oct 2025 23:49 | Anonymous member
  • 04 Oct 2025 10:10
    Reply # 13548989 on 13546768

    You have to buy a full roll, but not expensive.  Also has other uses.  I put as a liner on bunk cushions to keep the foam dry. 

  • 03 Oct 2025 23:25
    Reply # 13548906 on 13546768
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Mark wrote Graham, I guess you were using the very soft thin type. Yes, after looking at the video Jab has just posted, I see now that you are correct.

    I could find only one company in New Zealand who would sell Tyvek by the metre and it was very soft and beautifully light. I did not realise the construction cover material (as we see in the video that Jan just posted) was somewhat much stiffer and heavier.

  • 03 Oct 2025 16:05
    Reply # 13548746 on 13546768

    Do you mean this material (fabric?)? Isn't it too noisy (minute 1:37 of the video)? How will the sail behave after a few reefings/drops?

    I'm also planning to sew a new sail (with a larger camber), but I think it'll be ripstop or bluetarp again. I'm interested in a good glue/double-sided tape for these materials. The tape I used to glue the sail (regular double-sided tape from a DIY store) started peeling after a dozen or so uses (I only sail during the day and always carry the sail in my car). This small bluetarp sail (after zigzag stitching at the glue points) lasted two seasons, but I'd like to sew/glue a new one with a larger camber.

    Regards - Jan

    Last modified: 03 Oct 2025 20:57 | Anonymous member
  • 03 Oct 2025 12:25
    Reply # 13548653 on 13546768

    Graham, I guess you were using the very soft thin type.

    The generic product I have used is for roofs, under slates / tiles.  Thicker and stronger as it has to resist wind loads. It is quite stiff and easy to sew.  (I used it to make a sleeping bag cover)

  • 03 Oct 2025 12:21
    Reply # 13548652 on 13547799
    Anonymous wrote:

    Mark writes:  would have though sewing is no more time consuming to glueing, especially if Arne easy methods are used.


    It's not that easy to sew, I found. My first sail had a couple of tyvek panels, just as an experiement. It is extremely light and soft, and it is not a woven fabric. A more experienced person might be able to get things adjusted right, but I was a beginner and found it troublesome, compared with polyester cloth. I would be interested in Eric's response to that. I thought of using glue, at the time - even the double sided tape - but I never did, so I can't comment on that.

    I thought it was very interesting material, possibly with potential, but I don't think I will be using it again. Also, I swapped the tyvec panels out after a few months, so I can't comment on durability, but I suspect it will not be very durable. Again, I await Eric's comments with interest.

    (You have to be really careful with the hot knife on that stuff too. It melts and disppears in an instant the moment you put a hot knife near it).


  • 03 Oct 2025 11:14
    Reply # 13548647 on 13547776
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    A couple of thoughts.

    Here in UK, Tyvek type material is now always used under roof slates / tiles.  There are other brands less expensive. 
    i would have though sewing is no more time consuming to glueing, especially if Arne easy methods are used. And it saves the cost of glue.

    Bonjour


    In France Tyvex is also used to cover building scaffolding and support some advertisements during the refit of the building. Some are exposed to wind, sun and moon for many month and sometimes more than a year. 


    They are industrially welded in flat seems in huge panels that are attached to the scaffolding by rope lashings. (I'm thinking of one "place de la Concorde" on the "Hotel de la marine" that stayed there for very long time. Mainly one third of the width of the place de la Concorde and something like 6 or 7 floors high).

    I've never seen any torn away. Sometimes, workers are opening some "windows" in the panel without any issue. 


    I've only done some flat seems often double sewing, as I decided to have some vertical seems. The support of the wishbones where sewn to double the thickness and then sewn horizontally to the skin.


    At start, I only sew because I hadn't found the proper glue. Then I glue and sew until I've made the traction tests. Then I just glued. It's much longer to sew than to glue.

    The glue I used is just a soft film of glue without any support. It is placed on one the upper side of the under panel with the protection paper in place. The upper panel is then placed above and the protective paper ribbon is taken out by pulling it horizontally sideway while you press on the seem, just behind, to glue the two panels together. After, I press the firmly the joint by sliding my hand on it to crush the glue. I could have used the small roller than is used to crush the joints on wall paper. It is formally the same process, and as fast, as to close a pre-glued enveloppe.


    I left the wingsail unprotected for about a month late spring in Britanny. When I dismantled it, I was surprised to see that the white "gaffer tape" that I used to fix the skin on the yard (just to have an aerodynamic shape - no significant effort) was rotted by the UV but the Tyvex was like new. 

    I'll reuse the skin for the next prototype (different wishbones and sheeting system) hopefully next year.


    Eric ( on a road trip in western Australia)


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