modifying a Sangria to junkrig

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  • 04 Jul 2025 13:20
    Reply # 13517420 on 13487971

    For my 24m² sail, I use a 3 part halyard, with no efforts.  It's already a very long halyard ! You can use a winch for the last panels if it's too heavy.

    For the upper sheeting, I followed Arne's advice with more anti-twist : Malena upper sheeting fig 2 . You can see that in the beginning of this video https://youtu.be/pLmDwkylE78?si=FJrRqv7ZyE6stvPB&t=21

    It reduces chafe on the sail if you use a large webbing for the bottom of the mast lift. I used a seatbelt.

    With an aluminium tube as a partner to the mast step, I'd be afraid of corrosion between the mast and the "partner tube", it could be difficult to lift the mast after a few years.  A plywood mast step glued to the hull and reinforcement with plywood at the partner will be enough for strength.

    I hope I could show you my boat soon !







  • 04 Jul 2025 07:47
    Reply # 13517392 on 13487971

    The project is moving forward 

    - Mast : I get back a city lamppost week 35.

    - Sail : I am waiting for estimate

    - Some questions :

    • Four-part halyard or Five-part halyard ?
    • Sheet - file enclosed
    • Mast lift ?
    • Topping-lifts : 
    • Yard hauling parrel ?
    • Standing tack parrel
    • Standing topping lifts - file enclosed

    - partners : aluminium tube ( work planned for october)

    I am waiting for comments and suggestions

    Have a good day

    2 files
  • 14 Jun 2025 17:40
    Reply # 13510335 on 13509661
    Anonymous wrote:
    Anonymous wrote:

    Bonjour Jacques

    In terms of mecanical efforts, the more burry (height between the mast step and the stuck) the best. A rule of thumb is to have a bury of at least 10% of the mast height. 

    In your drawing,  the mast step is positionned quite high in regard to the bottom of the hull. 

    I would rather put it as low as possible. 

    There are at least two different options. One would be to cut the longitudinal plywood reenforcement to give way to the mast, the other would be to move the mast laterally a few centimeters to position the mast against the longitudinal reinforcement. It could even be possible to build the mast step as a tube (as on the laser) that would be glassed to both longitudinal and transversal reinforcement. 

    In this case, you would have at the lower part,against the hull, a few glassed layers of plywould to flatten the hull shape and provide a horizontal support to the mast. 

    Eric

    Ok , i choose second option ,i'm making a new draft
    New draft 
    1 file
  • 12 Jun 2025 18:30
    Reply # 13509661 on 13509535
    Anonymous wrote:

    Bonjour Jacques

    In terms of mecanical efforts, the more burry (height between the mast step and the stuck) the best. A rule of thumb is to have a bury of at least 10% of the mast height. 

    In your drawing,  the mast step is positionned quite high in regard to the bottom of the hull. 

    I would rather put it as low as possible. 

    There are at least two different options. One would be to cut the longitudinal plywood reenforcement to give way to the mast, the other would be to move the mast laterally a few centimeters to position the mast against the longitudinal reinforcement. It could even be possible to build the mast step as a tube (as on the laser) that would be glassed to both longitudinal and transversal reinforcement. 

    In this case, you would have at the lower part,against the hull, a few glassed layers of plywould to flatten the hull shape and provide a horizontal support to the mast. 

    Eric

    Ok , i choose second option ,i'm making a new draft
  • 12 Jun 2025 13:50
    Reply # 13509535 on 13487971
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Bonjour Jacques

    In terms of mecanical efforts, the more burry (height between the mast step and the stuck) the best. A rule of thumb is to have a bury of at least 10% of the mast height. 

    In your drawing,  the mast step is positionned quite high in regard to the bottom of the hull. 

    I would rather put it as low as possible. 

    There are at least two different options. One would be to cut the longitudinal plywood reenforcement to give way to the mast, the other would be to move the mast laterally a few centimeters to position the mast against the longitudinal reinforcement. It could even be possible to build the mast step as a tube (as on the laser) that would be glassed to both longitudinal and transversal reinforcement. 

    In this case, you would have at the lower part,against the hull, a few glassed layers of plywould to flatten the hull shape and provide a horizontal support to the mast. 

    Eric

  • 12 Jun 2025 07:48
    Reply # 13509474 on 13509020
    Anonymous wrote:
    Jacques wrote:

    Arne,

    Some News :

    Mast : In september , I get back a street lamp in aluminium ( 10 m , diameter At the bottom  : 16 cm At the top : 10 cm )

    Questions :

    What thickness for mast floor ? 

    What thickness for " étambrai " (in french) : 60 mm 6 x 10 mm ?  for reinforcement deck ?  Omega ou Porque 

    PS : Bermudian Ring For sale  !!!

    Have a good day 

    Jacques


    Here is how I built the mast step on my Ingeborg. It may not be the quickest way, but it is quite straightforward. My main motive was to create the biggest possible glued area between the mast sole and the hull, to exclude any chance of it ever to come loose. I have used this method on 3-4 boats and they have all worked well.


    http://bit.ly/2sf2tsW


    Good luck!

    Arne

    Photos : Inside - stuck & mast step draft - How do you feel about this plan?


    3 files
  • 12 Jun 2025 07:07
    Reply # 13509473 on 13509469
    Anonymous wrote:

    Jacques, can I ask you where you buy your lamp post ?

    From Mairie d'Arzon ( We don't discuss money , at present !!).
  • 12 Jun 2025 06:32
    Reply # 13509469 on 13487971

    Jacques, can I ask you where you buy your lamp post ?

  • 11 Jun 2025 09:00
    Reply # 13509020 on 13508582
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Jacques wrote:

    Arne,

    Some News :

    Mast : In september , I get back a street lamp in aluminium ( 10 m , diameter At the bottom  : 16 cm At the top : 10 cm )

    Questions :

    What thickness for mast floor ? 

    What thickness for " étambrai " (in french) : 60 mm 6 x 10 mm ?  for reinforcement deck ?  Omega ou Porque 

    PS : Bermudian Ring For sale  !!!

    Have a good day 

    Jacques


    Here is how I built the mast step on my Ingeborg. It may not be the quickest way, but it is quite straightforward. My main motive was to create the biggest possible glued area between the mast sole and the hull, to exclude any chance of it ever to come loose. I have used this method on 3-4 boats and they have all worked well.


    http://bit.ly/2sf2tsW


    Good luck!

    Arne

  • 10 Jun 2025 22:20
    Reply # 13508870 on 13487971
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Eric writes: "The vertical effort is very low. The only effort is lateral..."


    Yes and no. I agree, Jaques' strengthening in that area is probably more than adequate - provided the mast is fixed firmly in position at the heel.

    Pitching in a seaway does create quite a lot of downward momentum to the mast. We had a famous case many years ago of David Lewis last voyage, in a junk rigged boat. He never got out of the Hauraki Gulf. The mast "jumped" out of the mast step, in a choppy sea - and then fairly quickly punched its way through the hull.  End of voyage. He was rescued.

    Last modified: 11 Jun 2025 05:16 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
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