Tyvek and other building wraps for experimental sails

  • 03 Oct 2025 12:25
    Reply # 13548653 on 13546768

    Graham, I guess you were using the very soft thin type.

    The generic product I have used is for roofs, under slates / tiles.  Thicker and stronger as it has to resist wind loads. It is quite stiff and easy to sew.  (I used it to make a sleeping bag cover)

  • 03 Oct 2025 12:21
    Reply # 13548652 on 13547799
    Anonymous wrote:

    Mark writes:  would have though sewing is no more time consuming to glueing, especially if Arne easy methods are used.


    It's not that easy to sew, I found. My first sail had a couple of tyvek panels, just as an experiement. It is extremely light and soft, and it is not a woven fabric. A more experienced person might be able to get things adjusted right, but I was a beginner and found it troublesome, compared with polyester cloth. I would be interested in Eric's response to that. I thought of using glue, at the time - even the double sided tape - but I never did, so I can't comment on that.

    I thought it was very interesting material, possibly with potential, but I don't think I will be using it again. Also, I swapped the tyvec panels out after a few months, so I can't comment on durability, but I suspect it will not be very durable. Again, I await Eric's comments with interest.

    (You have to be really careful with the hot knife on that stuff too. It melts and disppears in an instant the moment you put a hot knife near it).


  • 03 Oct 2025 11:14
    Reply # 13548647 on 13547776
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    A couple of thoughts.

    Here in UK, Tyvek type material is now always used under roof slates / tiles.  There are other brands less expensive. 
    i would have though sewing is no more time consuming to glueing, especially if Arne easy methods are used. And it saves the cost of glue.

    Bonjour


    In France Tyvex is also used to cover building scaffolding and support some advertisements during the refit of the building. Some are exposed to wind, sun and moon for many month and sometimes more than a year. 


    They are industrially welded in flat seems in huge panels that are attached to the scaffolding by rope lashings. (I'm thinking of one "place de la Concorde" on the "Hotel de la marine" that stayed there for very long time. Mainly one third of the width of the place de la Concorde and something like 6 or 7 floors high).

    I've never seen any torn away. Sometimes, workers are opening some "windows" in the panel without any issue. 


    I've only done some flat seems often double sewing, as I decided to have some vertical seems. The support of the wishbones where sewn to double the thickness and then sewn horizontally to the skin.


    At start, I only sew because I hadn't found the proper glue. Then I glue and sew until I've made the traction tests. Then I just glued. It's much longer to sew than to glue.

    The glue I used is just a soft film of glue without any support. It is placed on one the upper side of the under panel with the protection paper in place. The upper panel is then placed above and the protective paper ribbon is taken out by pulling it horizontally sideway while you press on the seem, just behind, to glue the two panels together. After, I press the firmly the joint by sliding my hand on it to crush the glue. I could have used the small roller than is used to crush the joints on wall paper. It is formally the same process, and as fast, as to close a pre-glued enveloppe.


    I left the wingsail unprotected for about a month late spring in Britanny. When I dismantled it, I was surprised to see that the white "gaffer tape" that I used to fix the skin on the yard (just to have an aerodynamic shape - no significant effort) was rotted by the UV but the Tyvex was like new. 

    I'll reuse the skin for the next prototype (different wishbones and sheeting system) hopefully next year.


    Eric ( on a road trip in western Australia)


  • 03 Oct 2025 10:36
    Reply # 13548642 on 13547793
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    I have just made a pair of experimental sails from polytarp.

    I used a 200gsm cricket pitch cover which worked out at £1 per sq metre.

    As I don’t need them to last I’ve only used single row stitching. For broadseam darts I didn’t

    bother sewing and just used gorilla tape.

    https://tarpaflex.co.uk/tarpaulins/heavy-weight-tarpaulins/super-white-tarpaulins-200gsm/

    Bonjour

    The skin of my first experiemental junk wing was made out of Tarpaulin. I just bought the cheepest I could find in the super market. As it was quite small I didn't sew it. I just cut the form of the skin of the sail and then I welded some seems, with  string in it, all around with a sort of home made  Hot knife. 

    It was rather long and tedious as the hot knife had a nasty tendancy to hole the polytarp.

    The battens were attached with Colsen plastic colars.

    The sail was riveted onto the yard. 

    It resisted surprisingly well to un-expected high winds. 

    https://jra.wildapricot.org/wingsail_forum/3171190

    Ale de jonque (En français pour Maxime)

    Eric



    Last modified: 03 Oct 2025 11:21 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 01 Oct 2025 11:24
    Reply # 13547799 on 13546768
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Mark writes:  would have though sewing is no more time consuming to glueing, especially if Arne easy methods are used.


    It's not that easy to sew, I found. My first sail had a couple of tyvek panels, just as an experiement. It is extremely light and soft, and it is not a woven fabric. A more experienced person might be able to get things adjusted right, but I was a beginner and found it troublesome, compared with polyester cloth. I would be interested in Eric's response to that. I thought of using glue, at the time - even the double sided tape - but I never did, so I can't comment on that.

    I thought it was very interesting material, possibly with potential, but I don't think I will be using it again. Also, I swapped the tyvec panels out after a few months, so I can't comment on durability, but I suspect it will not be very durable. Again, I await Eric's comments with interest.

    (You have to be really careful with the hot knife on that stuff too. It melts and disppears in an instant the moment you put a hot knife near it).

  • 01 Oct 2025 10:58
    Reply # 13547793 on 13546768

    I have just made a pair of experimental sails from polytarp.

    I used a 200gsm cricket pitch cover which worked out at £1 per sq metre.

    As I don’t need them to last I’ve only used single row stitching. For broadseam darts I didn’t

    bother sewing and just used gorilla tape.

    https://tarpaflex.co.uk/tarpaulins/heavy-weight-tarpaulins/super-white-tarpaulins-200gsm/

    Last modified: 01 Oct 2025 10:59 | Anonymous member
  • 01 Oct 2025 10:17
    Reply # 13547776 on 13546768

    A couple of thoughts.

    Here in UK, Tyvek type material is now always used under roof slates / tiles.  There are other brands less expensive. 
    i would have though sewing is no more time consuming to glueing, especially if Arne easy methods are used. And it saves the cost of glue.

  • 29 Sep 2025 21:21
    Reply # 13547122 on 13546768
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Bonsoir Maxime

    Of course,... i'm stupid!

    The experiementations are in Englidh : https://jra.wildapricot.org/wingsail_forum/8755181#13514647 (for the non french reeders)

    Or in French : http://www.voiles-alternatives.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=601

    I must add some views of the sailing test but I spent the summer sailing...!

    I only have a dought about the reaction of the glue under a constant strain. It would be interresting to have a test were you leeve a joint under permanet limited constraint for a while. 

    Eric

  • 29 Sep 2025 17:31
    Reply # 13547001 on 13546865
    Anonymous wrote:

    Bonjour

    I've expérienced Tyvex on Mingming for a junkwing. It supported up to 25kts.

    I've start to sew it and finaly I glued it.

    You have the details of the experiementation on a French web site with photos. 

    Tyvek experiment for a sail

    It's in French but you may translate it and it should be understandable.

    I used 105g/m2 tyvex in 100 cm width. 

    I glued the seams with a 3M 927 glue fim of 25mm wide. 


    For the battens, rather than fiting some batten pockets, it may be faster to screw the tyvex betwenn two half battens, one on each side of the sail. The two half battens would also  reinforced the glued joint betwenn two pannels.

    Eric





    Bonjour Eric,

    Thanks for the link. Le français is actually my first language (hello from Québec!)

    Your description of your experiment is excellent. Very helpful and encouraging. A glue zone 25mm x 100mm failing at 50kg tension in sheer should be more than enough for an experimental sail. Do you have other posts describing the construction and testing of your sail? The weight of the Tyvek you used seems closer to (and even above) the weight of Tyvek Commercial house wrap. 

    My main worry with Typar VS Tyvek is that Typar, though much stronger, appears to have a slightly fuzzy side that might not take gluing or taping very well. Samples will tell. 

  • 29 Sep 2025 11:54
    Reply # 13546865 on 13546768
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Bonjour

    I've expérienced Tyvex on Mingming for a junkwing. It supported up to 25kts.

    I've start to sew it and finaly I glued it.

    You have the details of the experiementation on a French web site with photos. 

    Tyvek experiment for a sail

    It's in French but you may translate it and it should be understandable.

    I used 105g/m2 tyvex in 100 cm width. 

    I glued the seams with a 3M 927 glue fim of 25mm wide. 


    For the battens, rather than fiting some batten pockets, it may be faster to screw the tyvex betwenn two half battens, one on each side of the sail. The two half battens would also  reinforced the glued joint betwenn two pannels.

    Eric