Van de Stadt 36 Seal - JR conversion

  • 17 May 2026 19:40
    Reply # 13632717 on 9338306

    Slieve, the only fault that I can see certainly applies to me and others as well, and simply put, it’s that we’re all getting older and can’t do as much as we used to do. In my case, Parkinson’s makes it extremely difficult for me to write accurately; but I can still draw (so long as I’ve taken my medication!). That’s why I think that there needs to be a collaborative team effort here, pooling skills and resources to ensure that everything that has been learnt about SJR is recorded into a useful document. You have passed on your knowledge to those members who have built SJR rigs, and it is now those members who should really be stepping forward to make a good record all that you’ve taught them, in order to pass it on again. By all means do as much as you can, but I don’t see why it has to be a solo effort. So come on, all you SJR sailors, it’s time to get to work! 

  • 17 May 2026 17:00
    Reply # 13632689 on 9338306

    Ouch! I’ve just had my knuckles wrapped!

    Yes David, you are 100% right and the reason the write up is not available is my fault. Mea culpa!

    Since selling Poppy I have started a write up on the latest thing on the latest SJR thinking with building instructions on an annual basis but each time have got bored and moved on to other things. I seem to have half a dozen first chapters, all different, and many photos of building details, but nothing complete enough to publish. Your comments that it would be of interest might spur me on. If I did produce it it would probably save me having to answer many email on the subject, so it is in my interest to get on with it.

    One problem is that I have a medical condition that makes typing slow, difficult and inaccurate, requiring much correction. I’ve tried speech to text but that is not ideal with technical words and still needs much correcting. I am not a natural writer. Graeme has offered to help me out with editing, but I haven’t taken him up on it.

    So, OK, OK, I’ll try to sort out my half written bits and see if I can produce a useful document in the not too distant future.

    Sorry chaps.

    Cheers, Slieve.

  • 17 May 2026 13:10
    Reply # 13632654 on 13632633
    Anonymous wrote:All this discussion is leading me towards the view that there really ought to be a document on this website detailing the current state of the SJR art, building on Slieve’s original rough draft notes, and adding all that subsequent practitioners have proved to work. For example, I can find the broadseam calculator spreadsheet, but no notes on how to use it, and I don’t think that it gives dimensions for a mk2 sail. I can’t find notes on actually building a complete sail and rigging it, as the rough draft is incomplete, and it doesn’t give full explanations for some things that are advocated, such as the jibs being on the starboard side of the battens (this puzzles me). I’d certainly like to see a spreadsheet for the mk2 sail, and will undertake to develop a version of it with 5 parallel panels / 6 sheeted points, as a generic 2D CAD drawing that can be used to design and make offshore cruising sails. Like Slieve, I’ve retired from active sailing, but if I were still able to make a rig, put it on a boat and use it offshore, this would be what I’d favour, and I’d want to be able to access a full set of sailmaking instructions for it, as Arne has done for the kind of rig that he favours. If a wordsmith amongst us (Graeme?) will undertake to gather the info and draft such a document, I’ll undertake to employ such skills as I’ve acquired in 3D CAD modelling to illustrate it. 

    What a beautiful idea David!

    I think that many JRiggers would devoure such a writing.

    I certainly would....


    Mauro

    Last modified: 17 May 2026 13:12 | Anonymous member
  • 17 May 2026 09:20
    Reply # 13632634 on 13632577
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Slieve wrote:

    Sorry Arne, I wasn’t taking a pop at you. 


    Don’t worry, Slieve, we are good.
    Instead, let's focus on this great design. Van de Stadt was a pioneer in fitting separate, big and balanced rudders on his yachts. These are just perfect for controlling a sloop JR.
    A friend of mine has a 9m Pioneer, a grp yacht from 1963. This too has a king size rudder. The only little drawback is that the Pioneer will stray away from the course if one leaves the tiller for more than three seconds.

    David, a while ago I traced Slieve’s SJRs, both the Poppy version and the Amiina MkII version. I let you have the CAD files. I let Slieve have the finished jpg version.

    Of course, there are also versions where I have added Hasler-McLeod top sections. Wooops, it’s the way I am...

    Sorry,
    Arne

    PS: Today I have set up my flag at the balcony  -  it is our Constitution Day.


    Last modified: 17 May 2026 09:46 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 17 May 2026 08:13
    Reply # 13632633 on 13632523
    Slieve wrote:

    Hi Thomas,

    There are an interesting number of points here, and possibly some simple answers.

    Firstly, I don’t see why the Mk2 rig would not scale up well to 65sq.m. I have a spreadsheet which will give all the dimensions for that for the ‘standard’ shape (though I would have to check that is is complete) if you would like a copy. It may even give the broadseam depths and widths if going that way.

    As to whether to add another panel my answer is that I would not like to increase the aspect ratio too much, so might draw a rig only half a panel taller and split it into 5 parallel panels, but I will admit that I feel that 5 panels given enough reefing steps because of the rigs apparent tolerance to sail area and the advantage that with split sheeting with 2 battens per sheet then the twist can easily be controlled when reefed.

    As for additional controls for long distance cruising, the minimalist controls is one attraction of the rig. With no Hong Kong parrels, luff hauling parrels, fan up preventers you are left with a halyard, a pair of sheets, three or four combined downhaul/ batten parrels and either a yard hauling parrel or another downhaul/ yard parrel to make it work. In practice I would add shortish batten parrels to at least the top and bottom battens and to the yard for added security, and would discuss with David his comment on securing the boom (bottom batten).

    One thought I have had for long distance sailing on a junk would be to have a detachable water sail which could be clipped onto the bottom batten and held down against the deck with bungees through rings stretched from toe-rail to toe-rail. When sailing in light conditions closing the gap below the sail could give some extra drive. It could be made from spinnaker material, with a couple of small areas of window material and probably not need a slot. But as I say, just a thought.

    As for working out where the CoA of the existing multi headsail rig is, count me out.

    And don’t forget, I’m biased.

    Cheers, Slieve.


    All this discussion is leading me towards the view that there really ought to be a document on this website detailing the current state of the SJR art, building on Slieve’s original rough draft notes, and adding all that subsequent practitioners have proved to work. For example, I can find the broadseam calculator spreadsheet, but no notes on how to use it, and I don’t think that it gives dimensions for a mk2 sail. I can’t find notes on actually building a complete sail and rigging it, as the rough draft is incomplete, and it doesn’t give full explanations for some things that are advocated, such as the jibs being on the starboard side of the battens (this puzzles me). I’d certainly like to see a spreadsheet for the mk2 sail, and will undertake to develop a version of it with 5 parallel panels / 6 sheeted points, as a generic 2D CAD drawing that can be used to design and make offshore cruising sails. Like Slieve, I’ve retired from active sailing, but if I were still able to make a rig, put it on a boat and use it offshore, this would be what I’d favour, and I’d want to be able to access a full set of sailmaking instructions for it, as Arne has done for the kind of rig that he favours. If a wordsmith amongst us (Graeme?) will undertake to gather the info and draft such a document, I’ll undertake to employ such skills as I’ve acquired in 3D CAD modelling to illustrate it. 
  • 16 May 2026 22:51
    Reply # 13632577 on 9338306

    Sorry Arne, I wasn’t taking a pop at you. I’m not trying to be a competitive sales man, but simply trying to help someone who has expressed an interest. The problem is that you are so good at helping others, and I’m really retired from junk rigs. I’ve just bought a new boat. It’s an IOM and is a full 5cm longer than my other one but weighs 4 kg to the DF95’s 2kg, and is so much nicer to sail. Even at my stage of life I’m still learning.

    Cheers, Slieve.


  • 16 May 2026 21:18
    Reply # 13632554 on 9338306
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Here is my last proposed sailplan again, this time shown deeply reefed to only three panels. I have often sailed with only these panels set, either when entering the harbour, when trolling for mackerel or when the breeze suddenly increases. I am very glad I have kept this Hasler-McLeod type top section, as it gives me so much extra sail area for a given mast length.
    This has led me to add the Fan Up Preventer. I can live with the moderate extra attention this needs.
    The FUP, the YHP and THP are not being touched unless I am to alter sail area.

    As for the HK parrels; these are standing parrels. After initial setting up (takes 2 or 3 outings), I just forget about them. The job of the HK parrels these days is actually just to stabilise the sail and make it believe it is flat. Simple as that.

    Cheers
    Arne

    PS: Don’t forget, I am biased too...

    (full size diagram in Arne's sketches, section 9)

  • 16 May 2026 17:57
    Reply # 13632523 on 9338306

    Hi Thomas,

    There are an interesting number of points here, and possibly some simple answers.

    Firstly, I don’t see why the Mk2 rig would not scale up well to 65sq.m. I have a spreadsheet which will give all the dimensions for that for the ‘standard’ shape (though I would have to check that is is complete) if you would like a copy. It may even give the broadseam depths and widths if going that way.

    As to whether to add another panel my answer is that I would not like to increase the aspect ratio too much, so might draw a rig only half a panel taller and split it into 5 parallel panels, but I will admit that I feel that 5 panels given enough reefing steps because of the rigs apparent tolerance to sail area and the advantage that with split sheeting with 2 battens per sheet then the twist can easily be controlled when reefed.

    As for additional controls for long distance cruising, the minimalist controls is one attraction of the rig. With no Hong Kong parrels, luff hauling parrels, fan up preventers you are left with a halyard, a pair of sheets, three or four combined downhaul/ batten parrels and either a yard hauling parrel or another downhaul/ yard parrel to make it work. In practice I would add shortish batten parrels to at least the top and bottom battens and to the yard for added security, and would discuss with David his comment on securing the boom (bottom batten).

    One thought I have had for long distance sailing on a junk would be to have a detachable water sail which could be clipped onto the bottom batten and held down against the deck with bungees through rings stretched from toe-rail to toe-rail. When sailing in light conditions closing the gap below the sail could give some extra drive. It could be made from spinnaker material, with a couple of small areas of window material and probably not need a slot. But as I say, just a thought.

    As for working out where the CoA of the existing multi headsail rig is, count me out.

    And don’t forget, I’m biased.

    Cheers, Slieve.


  • 16 May 2026 10:27
    Reply # 13632474 on 13632464
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    Thomas Nance wrote:

    Thanks Arne for the sail drawings. From what I know, it seems a sail with around 33% balance forward of the mast is needed to place the mast in the ideal location, anything less puts it in the bullhead or right where your head lays on the forward berth. 

    ...

    Thanks again for all your time



    Funny that, Thomas.
    Unless your boat differs from the plans (see below), the mast will not hit any of the bunks. However, I would consider offsetting the mast 10-15cm to port to ease the access. That will have no negative effect on sailing.

    Arne

    PS: Where did you plan to position the mast?

    Last modified: 16 May 2026 14:44 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 16 May 2026 08:17
    Reply # 13632464 on 9338306

    Thanks everyone for the generous sharing of information, it's a real advantage having this site and the people who fill it. 

    I wasn't sure if the converted sail area needed to match the full sail of the donor boat and it's a relief to hear that something more like 65m2 would be adequate, much better!

    If the sail area comes from the effective main and fore triangle for the old rig, then do you also use that area to calculate the original CE? That would seem at least simpler to figure out. 

    Thanks Arne for the sail drawings. From what I know, it seems a sail with around 33% balance forward of the mast is needed to place the mast in the ideal location, anything less puts it in the bullhead or right where your head lays on the forward berth. 

    Slieve, you will probably know this best, but would a design like the Amiina Mk2 sail scale well to something around 65m2? If it would, would you recommend any changes like more panels? Or more standing or running lines to help the sail drape or sit right?

    Also, regarding the mast height, it's good to know that the likely required height wouldn't be "too much" or "too heavy"

    Thanks again for all your time