Electric outboard drive for small cruisers

  • 31 Aug 2020 22:03
    Reply # 9202828 on 9186671
    David wrote:

    [...] later on, there were several consecutive days with a lot of motoring through calm, cloudy weather [..]

    I have been wondering how you and others deal with the helm when motoring. Does under power mean you are steering by hand?
  • 24 Aug 2020 13:32
    Reply # 9186671 on 8809939

    An update after a month's cruising:

    Several times I needed to motor through calms or near-calms for ten miles, to get into the anchorage before dark or to beat a tidal gate. No problem with having enough battery capacity for that, as only 10A - 30A (250W - 750W, or less than 1HP of electrical input) were needed to make 2 - 3 knots against little resistance. Maybe I could have got away with the Haswing Protruar 2.0, rather than the 5.0, but I find it reassuring to have a burst of much more than normal power available to manouevre in a strong wind in a tight harbour, or to get me out of trouble.

    The motor and electrical installation were reliable, and gave no trouble. In the sunny weather with adequate breezes of the early part of the cruise, the 360W solar panel kept up with demand, but later on, there were several consecutive days with a lot of motoring through calm, cloudy weather, and I thought it prudent to go into Bangor marina and plug into shore power for 24 hours. 

  • 19 Jul 2020 18:30
    Reply # 9112156 on 8809939

    I only needed a few minutes of motor use to get Weaverbird off the sandy bottom against the breeze, then I could lay the course out of Ravenglass under sail; and it only took about 10 minutes of half power to creep into Bass Pool, Piel, very gently as it was approaching LW,  with half power giving me 2.5 knots against the fresh breeze. So not too demanding, but it seemed to take very little out of the battery.

    So, motor - good, transom bracket - not so good. The motor clamps were slipping as I applied a lot of power athwartships to get off the sand. I'll have to find a better way of securing the motor onto the bracket. The motor really does put out a lot of thrust.

  • 18 Jun 2020 21:17
    Reply # 9046006 on 8809939

    I asked the manufacturer's rep to confirm that I could charge my batteries while motoring and with any other charging devices such as solar panels and wind generator The answer was yes.

    Motor: Electric Yacht QT 10.0 Sport

    Generator: Honda EU2200i

    Last modified: 19 Jun 2020 01:29 | Anonymous member
  • 17 Jun 2020 13:26
    Reply # 9042592 on 8809939

    I don't understand why this label is attached, as there is supposed to be high voltage protection + audio alarm. I queried this with the UK agent that I bought from. The agent and I agreed that I should set the charging voltages on the low side, initially, only raising them when it is clear that the high voltage protection isn't triggered. He also said that running the motor would reduce the voltage in any case. So far, so good: I have the solar charging permanently connected, and it hasn't given any trouble.

  • 17 Jun 2020 11:21
    Reply # 9042394 on 8809939

    I found a warning label that came with the Haswing that says:

    Always disconnect the motor while charging the batteries
    The higher charging voltage can damage the electronic
    components of the Haswing motor.

    Is this something to worry about in practice?

  • 06 Jun 2020 15:10
    Reply # 9018982 on 9018853
    I wrote:

    And.. it would actually be nice to get a 20-30Ah portable battery pack for the dinghy, but they'd need to be 3C cells (to draw 60-90A continuous). Maybe some day...

    Quickly browsed through the AliExpress store where I bought my cells. If this product description is to be believed (looks like the same line that I have) these 20Ah cells can handle up to 10C (200A) continuous discharge, for €245. Slap on a €58 Daly BMS and you have a 24V/20Ah (~500Wh) battery for ~€300. Judging from today's trials 5A should be enough power to drive you along in calm conditions, so the range would be up to 4 hours, although under average conditions it would probably be between 1-2 hours. Unfortunately the cells are only available shipped from China so I wouldn't have time to wait for them to arrive. Another time.

  • 06 Jun 2020 13:52
    Reply # 9018853 on 8809939

    Had a 3 hour window here without rain so decided to do some sea trials after all! Worked pretty much as expected. Had 26.1V to start with and ended up with 25.9V. Only ran a really short while on full throttle since the voltage under load dipped down to 24.1-24.2 and didn't want to push it, so I mostly ghosted along, trying different speeds, getting the feel for the motor behaves is at 1A, at 5A, at 10A, 20A... with some running up to 80-85A (with voltage under load dropping to about 25.2-25.4V).

    One annoyance is that the throttle turns the opposite way compared to a regular outboard so I found myself reversing when getting underway and increasing the revs when I wanted to slow down. This is gonna take a bit of time getting used to, unless I dare to pick the throttle apart and switch it around...

    Would be an excellent driver for this 4.2 meter aluminium boat, if only you wouldn't have to carry that heavy battery pack every time..! I'm all sweaty now. So would basically need to be able to charge it at the boat.

    And.. it would actually be nice to get a 20-30Ah portable battery pack for the dinghy, but they'd need to be 3C cells (to draw 60-90A continuous). Maybe some day...

    That concludes this chapter, now I can take the battery apart until it's time to fit it to Tua-Tua.

  • 05 Jun 2020 21:19
    Reply # 9018044 on 8809939

    Figured out how to wire the BMS:

    It was a bit of a challenge due to there first of all being two B- and P- wires (the blue and black ones from the BMS) instead of one in the instructions (since most other Daly BMS's) but they're just doubled, instead of using a thicker gauge I suppose. And secondly due to the sloppy Chinese instructions in questionable English. But I managed in the end and all voltages were correct!

    Next up, as I bought a 150A fuse locally yesterday, I connected the Victron charge controller and the ammeter and gave the electric motor a dry run. Worked just as it should, showed a 3.3A draw on maximum revs.

    Unfortunately it's been rainy here today and will continue tomorrow, so splash tests will have to wait. And should probably build a better battery box in the meantime anyways. And I will need to get started on sewing the sail. Rain-free days aren't expected here until Wednesday.

    Edit: For the production version I think I will wire the solar charge controller directly to the battery, bypassing the BMS. This in order to protect from the case where the BMS shuts off the batteries for whatever reason (low/high voltage), which would potentially kill the SCC if the panels are connected. Although it might be able to handle it since I have 24V panels, it would be more critical if I had something like 96V of solar feeding into the controller, with nowhere to discharge. From what I've read.

    Last modified: 05 Jun 2020 21:24 | Anonymous member
  • 04 Jun 2020 14:19
    Reply # 9014607 on 8809939

    BMS arrived today and now I'm itching to go try out the motor, but it's probably not a great idea to do it without a fuse or a breaker (which hasn't arrived yet). :|

       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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