Sail shape, number of pannels, and how it reefs....

  • 28 Sep 2018 16:19
    Reply # 6697132 on 6693142
    Deleted user

    I'm planning on building my next sail in polytarp and I'm considering one of the clear tarps with string reinforcing for at least the bottom 2 panels so I can see through the sail, if I ever decide to build an AYRS sail I'll use it for the whole sail.

    When I was using a balanced lug I had trouble getting the yard to peak up until I changed the halyard a bit, instead of just attaching it to the yard at the sling plate I ran it through a loop of rope at the sling plate and from there to the very front of the yard, the yard peaked up nicely after that, I've been meaning to try it on my junk rig to see if I can't do away with the YHP altogether.

    I spent a lot of time and thought on having fewer strings ever since I changed from my spritsail, there's much to be said for simplicity, unfortunately, there's more to be said for being able to reef :)



    Bill



  • 26 Sep 2018 21:10
    Reply # 6694241 on 6693142

    My sail is over 90 square feet, it will not set as easy as yours will. Our sails are very different, yours has about a third in front of the mast mine has a bit at the bottom and nothing at the top ahead of the mast. Such a sail will never set unless yard is peaked up. 

    Only moving the halyard up the yard will help setting it with less yard parrel tension. That, on the other hand will send the foot lower, forcing me to cut it off so I can see where I'm going.... Or a longer mast, and a longer yard (the LeShunk yard i mean...) and there u go even more weight high up............ So, just peak up the yard and pull on the parrel. 

    My battens are junk that was just laying round the shop, they are just to help me understand where the real ones will be, how long they will be and what shape the sail will have.

    That upper luff parrel is a very good idea, it will work. Still I prefer things to be as simple as can be and less strings to pull is how I prefer things to be. As for running, My long sculling oar takes the CLR so far aft that I never felt a thing going smack down wind with my big crab claws, I hope things will be the same with the JR

    Thanks though, I will remember the upper luff parrel as an option if things need  any major tweaking.........  Who knows????

    All d best Bill.

    Rael

  • 26 Sep 2018 16:09
    Reply # 6693717 on 6693142
    Deleted user

    Looking good m8, you've managed to turn most of the stumbling blocks into stepping stones, hope we get to see her sailing soon.

    Good info on the camber, I was wondering why I wasn't going faster in my sailing sculler, that's probably the reason, new mast and sail are on the drawing board though :)

    most junk rigs have boltropes in leech and luff to reinforce them, Your sail is a lot higher peaked than mine, so I'm not sure my experience really applies.

    on your sail it looks like you need to use the yard hauling parel to set your sail, on mine all it does is hold the sail close to the mast so there's no need to do more than snug it up, once I start reefing I don't usually bother with the YHP at all. while on your sail you need to cinch the YHP tight to get your sail to set at all, you might find moving your halyard attachment point around helps set the sail better so you don't have to pull your yard hauling parrel so tight.

    also, the sail sets a lot differently when full of wind, it'd be nice if you could play around with the plastic sail on the water for a bit so you could see first hand how all the bits and bobs on a junk rig work together before you make your sail.

    Your battens look a bit big for the size of the sail, I'm just guessing but it looks like about 75 sq ft, about the same as mine which has 7/8" X 5/8" X 8'(21mm X 15mm X 2.4m) battens.

    Have you considered using something like an upper luff hauling parel to pull the top of your sail back when shunting? It'd give you a lot more balance and you wouldn't need such a high yard angle to clear the mast, your sail would probably set better as well, as is you're likely need a pretty big rudder if you want to sail downwind.


    Bill

    PS: wetsuits are cheap and will keep you roasty and toasty when sailing in the winter, I wear mine under jogging pants and a jacket.

    Last modified: 26 Sep 2018 16:12 | Deleted user
  • 26 Sep 2018 04:34
    Message # 6693142

    The plastic ripped at the throat between yard and first batten, it seems to happen once deep reefed and yard parrel is tightened up.

    Do I need to add a yard hauling parrel? or would reinforcing the throat with webbing be enough??

    On such a rig how about zero camber for top panel, about 3 for second and 6% camber on the bottom 3. Is it wise to have less camber on a multihull???

    The link below shows the rig

    https://youtu.be/FhzaNQtE03Q

    Thanks in advance.

    Rael.

       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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