Sheet lead

  • 07 Feb 2018 20:55
    Reply # 5726695 on 5699162
    Deleted user

    Thanks for the suggestions. Lots of great ideas as I try to sort this out. I really like the bimini on Tystie. So maybe a bimini needs to be a part of my solution and not just something I add once I am satisfied with my sheet arangement. Practical Junk Rig suggests a 10-30 degree angle for the sheets. Using the legacy traveler would be much steeper, but I thought it mught be a worthwile compromise. Seems to me the steeper angle would reduce the risk of fan-ups, but I get the impression that what seems intuitive to me is dumb in practice hence my caution.

  • 24 Jan 2018 23:44
    Reply # 5700773 on 5699162

    My set up is similar to that suggested by David Tyler.  The deck sheet blocks are attached to a horse about 400m above the transom.  There is an athwartships alloy tube 400mm above that to stop the sheet flicking up and strangling the windvane.  This used to mostly happen when I was tacking and the boat was pitching a bit, with the wind blowing the slackened sheet aft. 

    I have a solid roof over the front half of the cockpit, and the sheet slides over this when gybing, keeping it clear of everything else, as long as it doesn't droop down and get under the aft corner of the roof, forcing me to heave it over by hand.  To stop that, last year I fitted alloy tubes that run from the aft corners of the cockpit roof back to the dinghy davits, over which the sheet lies.  Now I can gybe with a slack sheet, though I only do this in lighter winds.  In stronger winds, I adjust the windvane for the new course, push the tiller with one foot to speed up the gybe, then heave mightily on the sheet tail as it slackens, to take as much slack out of it as possible as it comes across, leaving the sheet cleated and flaking the tail down on the cockpit seat beside me.  It works, but I am a bit puffed afterwards! 

    I think I could now gybe with a slack sheet even in strong winds, unless the sail is reefed.  When I reef, I do not tie the battens down at the leach, or have a fan-up preventer fitted (planning to work on that again this year), which means there is a risk of a fan-up when gybing with a slack sheet.  Hauling in on the slack reduces this risk.  One thing we are all agreed on, if there is anything the sheet can grab it will, it is like a naughty monkey!

    As an aside: for short-handed passagemaking, where you are likely to be sleeping below with the boat self-steering, tying the batten ends down when reefing, or having a fan up preventer, is highly desirable, as there is always the chance of an accidental gybe, which could cause a nasty fan-up.

  • 24 Jan 2018 08:57
    Reply # 5699559 on 5699162

    Tystie also has the sheet blocks on the stern pushpit, and I reckon that the best solution to snagging problems is to put a hoop (or two) over the cockpit (either semicircular or trapezoidal in shape, so that the sheet will slide over the top as you gybe). I then stretched two taut lines from the pushpit, via that hoop, to the gallows. This was pretty effective at preventing the sheet from snagging - but  as David says, it will still find a way, whatever you do. With that setup as a basis, it's easy to add sun-shading canvas, or even a hard top, as required.

    Last modified: 24 Jan 2018 09:00 | Anonymous member
  • 24 Jan 2018 05:55
    Reply # 5699419 on 5699162
    Deleted user

    Hi Mark, There will be others who will no doubt respond with more technical expertise about sheet angles, and I guess Practical Junk Rig would be a good source of information on this. However having owned and sailed a junk rig boat for 10 years now one thing I have learned is that the sheet will catch on anything it can, there is just so much of it. It will easily catch around a tiller so changing from wheel to tiller steering may not solve this particular issue! Over the years I have learned some techniques to minimise snagging of the mainsheet. When hoisting or lowering the sail I always have the boat at an angle to the wind where the sail and bundle are not on the centerline of the boat, but pushed out to the gunwale on the port side, (sail on port side of the mast). Once I learned to do this I dramatically reduced the number of snarl ups. When gybing I pull the sheet in tight before gybing, and then once the sail has swung over past the centerline of the boat I allow the sheet to run out very quickly. I know there is a school of though that says you should gybe 'all standing', but there is no way I am going to do that with my 53 square metre sail. I have also fitted a substantial Bimini frame midway along the cockpit which also helps to keep the slack sheet up high away from things like the tiller and the crew's heads. 

  • 24 Jan 2018 00:49
    Message # 5699162
    Deleted user

    My junk rigged Pearson has the sheet led to the aft rail. 

    Worked fine except occasionally it would snag on the steering pedestal when gybing. 


    I plan to try relocating the attachment to the original traveler on my Pearson 367. This will result in a lead that is steeper than 30 degrees. 


    Any potential troubles I should keep alert for?


    I would actually like to get rid of the steering pedestal and go with a tiller, but that is a future project. 


    I want to get it dialed in before adding a bimini which I would like to do as soon as possible.

       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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