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Galion 22 conversion

  • 16 Feb 2018 08:26
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    Reply # 5740015 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    This is all looking good and strong, Jami. Have you tried assembling the two panels onto battens, to check that all is turning out as you'd planned? 
  • 15 Feb 2018 10:02
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    Reply # 5738025 on 5070195
    Anonymous member
    Panels #7 and #6 done. Maybe it's time to reveal what I'm doing.

    The sail will be a hybrid of ideas and tips from several gentlemen, including a view of my own (partly intuition, partly my experience with the Joe 17 sail I did last year. Not to say I am a gentleman in any way myself).

    - The sail is Arne-type master sail with AR 2.15., SA aboout 28 sqm.
    - Cambered panels are being sewn with broadseaming and tucks.
    - Separate panels, joined with hinges of the same length.
    - The top three panels might be sewn together with batten pockets, but I haven't made up my mind yet if this will be the case or not.

    So far all seems ok. My way of sewing separate panels with strengthening webbing (see photos) and hinges means more work, but I prefer this method for several reasons. I like modular designs.

    I have received the most valuable help from Arne Kverneland, David Tyler and Slieve McGalliard, thank you so much already. The work of Roger Taylor also has a great influence on my effort, although I haven't been in contact with him.

    Still five more panels to do, not to mention the whole mast issue. But I'll be ready for the summer!
  • 05 Feb 2018 10:35
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    Reply # 5718128 on 5070195
    Anonymous member
    I have started to sew, still a bit dizzy about the whole broadseaming concept. 

    I'll be updating photos here.
  • 23 Jan 2018 08:53
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    Reply # 5697214 on 5070195
    Anonymous member
    Now this seems quite clear, thanks again!
  • 23 Jan 2018 08:45
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    Reply # 5697212 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    Here's the way I see it:

    1700mm x 2.5 = 4250mm. That is, two and a half widths of cloth will very nicely cover the chord of the sail, with enough left over to form the seams (20mm each) and the folded tablings at luff and leech (105mm is available, folded in twice, so 52mm finished width). So this is a very economical way to use the cloth, with no wastage. Nice.

    There will be two seams, so where to put them? In the area of maximum curvature, not at the point of maximum depth of round. That is, near the luff is the best place for a broad seam, and the half-width of cloth should go here. The after seam is not in a place of much curvature, and there should be little or no broad seam here. Instead, as this is very wide cloth, you need to put a dart, or tuck, in the middle of the cloth, as I've described before. Possibly two darts, but I don't see that as essential. Certainly don't cut the cloth and sew it back together with a whole new seam. 
  • 23 Jan 2018 07:59
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    Reply # 5697207 on 5070195
    Anonymous member
    Sorry folks, once again a question about broadseaming (which I finally seem to have basically understood):

    The width of my sail will be 4000 mm, and the cloth 1700 mm.

    One width will be set at the leech end, which will take 1600-1650 mm, depending on the seam allowance/overlap. Now, if I set another whole width at the luff end, the same 1600-1650 mm will be very close to the max round of the panel. As I understand, this is a good thing for the broadseaming.

    The rest (about 800 mm) would be left between these two.

    The "leechward" seam is at the straight area of the panel. This means that the whole "extra" cloth to be taken by the broadseam/s would have to be done with only one seam (the one near max round). This doesn't sound good to me.

    Should I make an extra seam to the "luffward" cloth, for the sake of broadseaming only? Is it worth it?

    (I'm not thinking about the extra labour here, just the strenght.)

    Last modified: 23 Jan 2018 08:00 | Anonymous member
  • 17 Jan 2018 15:18
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    Reply # 5687571 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Good luck, Jami,

    I am sure your way will work. The only sails that don't work, are those which were never made. Getting started is half the success.


    Arne
  • 17 Jan 2018 14:19
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    Reply # 5687500 on 5070195
    Anonymous member
    Ok, thanks.

    I used vertical cloth (with one seam) the last time also, as you can see here.  The reason was the small size of the sail: using 170cm cloth horizontally would have wasted a lot, when the height of one panel was maybe 80cm (can't remember excactly).

    Arne, I am about to use broadseaming on your sail model. This is why I'll go for the vertical cloth.

    Last modified: 17 Jan 2018 14:20 | Anonymous member
  • 17 Jan 2018 12:34
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    Reply # 5687422 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    20mm seam width is standard for a seam with two lines of stitching (and two lines are all that's needed). Good to see that you're placing the cloth sailmaker-fashion, parallel to the leech.
  • 17 Jan 2018 10:12
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    Reply # 5687303 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Jami,
    I doubt if the width of the overlap is critical. It is the number of seams that decides the strength. I guess you have the choice between double- and trippel-seaming the joints. Make a little test with double and then triple seams, and you will soon see how much overlap it takes to look right. 

    What makes you change from horizontal to vertical cloths this time?

    Arne
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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