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  • 02 Apr 2018 09:36
    Quote
    Reply # 6010686 on 4315719
    Anonymous member

    David, you are really far too kind. All I can say is that without epoxy I couldn't build anything that would float. It turns a bodger into a builder.

    I truly hope that I haven't shot you down in flames before and if I have, I can only apologise. I have actually thought about putting camber on the upper part of the lute - it seemed to make sense. But while traditional junks have very curved sterns, those with a 'lute' seem to have a flat top (not, I suppose that this is really relevant) and when I tried adding camber to the model , I was rather surprised to see that - at least at that scale - it really didn't seem to work.

    I'm planning to add a lot of decoration to the lute, so hope it will end up in keeping. These little aesthetic details have nothing to do with the boat's efficiency, but are ludicrously important to the besotted builder!

    I hope you get up to Whangarei so that I can show you what I'm doing.

    As to building a boat for yourself: all I can say is that it will be wonderful to be back afloat, but that I suspect in retrospect, this will be one of the happiest and most fulfilling times of my life!
  • 02 Apr 2018 08:17
    Quote
    Reply # 6010657 on 4315719
    Deleted user

    I just had a good look through your Blog photos which I have not done for a while. It seems to me that you are creating something more than just a boat. it looks like a very beautiful artistic creation. I am sure there have been very few boats built with such attention to detail in recent years. Looking at the photos gets me a bit motivated to start my own boat building project.  

    Re that taffrail,  flute stern, whatever you want to call it, and at the risk of being shot down in flames again, I hope there is going to be a little bit of curve across the top edge, something to mimic the deck camber but not necessarily as much camber. 

    And Annie, you are one in a million, How many women in their, (Ahem, I won't say which decade!) would take on a project like this and produce such wonderful results.

    Last modified: 02 Apr 2018 08:25 | Deleted user
  • 01 Apr 2018 21:56
    Quote
    Reply # 6010185 on 4315719
    Anonymous member

    I posted my blog yesterday, but forgot to mention it here.  I've been working on several things at once - moving from one job to another as I wait for epoxy to harden up.
  • 23 Mar 2018 09:27
    Quote
    Reply # 5994053 on 5994020
    Anonymous member
    David Thatcher wrote:

    Regardless Annie, I can see from your photos that when your new ship eventually hits the water she is going to be a thing of beauty constructed to a very high standard, and I think we are all going to be a little envious of your new purpose built junk rigged yacht.


    Hear, hear!
  • 23 Mar 2018 09:25
    Quote
    Reply # 5994052 on 5985753
    Anonymous member
    Annie Hill wrote:
    David Tyler wrote:As I've said before - don't overbuild! 'Nuff said.
    Ah, I was waiting for that David.  But there is a two and a half metre span with no visible means of support, well away from the bulkheads.  I think of being becalmed in an easterly swell of Cape Brett and I think I don't want to hear horrible creaks and groans and watch the deck rippling under the loads.

    The framing is kahikatea, which is super light; the inner lining I've reduced from 6mm to 4mm; the Gougeon Bros reckon that an extra frame (or stringer) beats extra plywood any day.  Badger's deck was 30mm thick by the mainmast (where there was also a very wide span) and that sail was smaller than mine will be.  I don't think I'm going for overkill.


    No, having looked closely at the last photo in your blog, and at what you wrote, I don't think you are going for overkill. Or if you are, not by all that much. The deck generally is two layers of 6mm plywood, in the cambered middle section. I would add another further two 6mm layers between the two deckbeams that I can see, and out as far as the two stringers (router a rebate 12mm x 12mm in the tops of the deckbeams and stringers to get a good joint). That will be a little more than enough (one layer would do), and permit you to sleep sound o' nights. After that, there should be some blocking, very locally around the tabernacle and with a depth to fill up the gap between deck and headlining, to join it strongly to the deck, and then it will be a "proper job".
  • 23 Mar 2018 08:04
    Quote
    Reply # 5994020 on 5985761
    Deleted user
    Annie Hill wrote:

    Yo, David, but Footprints isn't exactly lightly-built is she?  You have an 18mm deck, with fairly heavy glass over the top, as I recall.  And deck beams either side of the mast - which is what I've been fitting.  I am trying to limit weight high up, but if I build the deck in way of the mast too light, it's going to worry me forever and I can hardly go back and beef it up later.  Blondie and Jock possibly went for overkill and maybe I am, but some sea conditions can put horrendous loads on the rig.
    Yes, Footprints does have a fairly heavy deck construction, but she is also a much heavier boat with a large rig. I am not aware of any extra fiberglass layers and looking at the construction drawings the only additional strengthening to the deck specified is the extra thickness in the immediate area of the mast cut out. But this is probably an area where we are all guessing a bit, and where it would be useful to have some actual engineering calculations. One reason why I think that the plywood deck as designed should be sufficient to support the loads of the mast/tabernacle is the fact that relatively thin, (9mm) sheets of plywood, and even composite board, are used as bracing elements in the walls in house, and other building construction. Having built a few houses I know that the important thing for this is the type, number, and spacing of the screws or nails which secure the bracing sheet to the framing.  A deck beam fore and aft of the mast is a must, but any additional layers of plywood would need to be very well glued to the existing decking to be effective. Probably the intelligent thing to do would be top add some layers of uni-directional fiberglass, especially carbon, going across the width of the deck in the mast area. This would add strength without a lot of additional weight - but who wants to be applying fiberglass to the underside of the deck?!

    Regardless Annie, I can see from your photos that when your new ship eventually hits the water she is going to be a thing of beauty constructed to a very high standard, and I think we are all going to be a little envious of your new purpose built junk rigged yacht.


    Last modified: 23 Mar 2018 08:04 | Deleted user
  • 19 Mar 2018 06:48
    Quote
    Reply # 5985761 on 5985689
    Anonymous member
    David Thatcher wrote: I wonder if you need a lot of extra strength here. Footprints only has an extra thickness around the immediate area of the deck cutout for the mast, which only extends 100mm beyond the diameter of the mast. And the deck beams fore and aft of the mast are joined with some 12mm bronze rod running fore and aft either side of the mast. I have always wondered whether this actually does anything. Every little bit extra added into the boat can add up to a lot of weight at the end of the project. Maybe I am still thinking like a multihull sailor!
    Yo, David, but Footprints isn't exactly lightly-built is she?  You have an 18mm deck, with fairly heavy glass over the top, as I recall.  And deck beams either side of the mast - which is what I've been fitting.  I am trying to limit weight high up, but if I build the deck in way of the mast too light, it's going to worry me forever and I can hardly go back and beef it up later.  Blondie and Jock possibly went for overkill and maybe I am, but some sea conditions can put horrendous loads on the rig.
  • 19 Mar 2018 06:39
    Quote
    Reply # 5985759 on 5984825
    Anonymous member
    Webmaster JRA wrote:

    Annie

    I made your image 'clickable' so it can be viewed in all its glory, full-sized.

    Chris

    Thank you Chris.  You are too kind.
  • 19 Mar 2018 06:37
    Quote
    Reply # 5985756 on 5984732
    Anonymous member
    ueli lüthi wrote:

    hi annie

    Annie Hill wrote:…I've been fitting the cabin sole in the forecabin, and in between time, polishing portholes and scraping old paint off kauri.  Neither of these are exactly photogenic…

    did you ever look at your work?
    …how can you think your cabin sole (or should i say 'your tigerwood cabin soul'?) wasn't photogenetic…

    with the sole in it looks a lot more 'ready to move in' than before…

    ueli


    Apologies: I mustn't have expressed myself clearly.  I confess that I do think the tigerwood cabin sole is sublime: the "neither of these" referred to polishing portholes and scraping off old paint.  (But both porthole and kauri will be photogenic when I've finished with them!)

    Thank you for your kind comments :-)


    Last modified: 19 Mar 2018 06:38 | Anonymous member
  • 19 Mar 2018 06:34
    Quote
    Reply # 5985753 on 5984588
    Anonymous member
    David Tyler wrote:As I've said before - don't overbuild! 'Nuff said.
    Ah, I was waiting for that David.  But there is a two and a half metre span with no visible means of support, well away from the bulkheads.  I think of being becalmed in an easterly swell of Cape Brett and I think I don't want to hear horrible creaks and groans and watch the deck rippling under the loads.

    The framing is kahikatea, which is super light; the inner lining I've reduced from 6mm to 4mm; the Gougeon Bros reckon that an extra frame (or stringer) beats extra plywood any day.  Badger's deck was 30mm thick by the mainmast (where there was also a very wide span) and that sail was smaller than mine will be.  I don't think I'm going for overkill.
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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