A junk rig for Weaverbird

  • 13 Jun 2016 14:34
    Reply # 4072549 on 3858224

    Thanks for the info David. I'm just investigating whether it's feasible to replace my existing wooden wedges with some sort of poured resin.

    I'm not quite sure from reading the details of the Easy Composites resin what the maximum usable volume is. The spec seems to say 10 cubic cm at the thickest part of the casting. The gap between my partners and mast is about 25mm all round and 100mm deep.

    Would vaseline be ok as a release agent or might the heat of the exotherm cause problems?

    Yes, I'm faced with the problem of the step plug, if cast onto the mast permanently, being too big to pass through the partners when the time comes to remove the mast. However I seem to remember Jonathan Snodgrass mentioning that Lexia's Spartite plugs were easily slid up and down the mast as release agent had been applied to both mast and partners. I was hoping that a liberal smearing of vaseline on both step and mast base would be enough so I could tap the cast ring off the mast bottom when the crane had raised the mast up a few inches. I suppose it wouldn't be too much hassle to destroy the plug on the mast base and cast a new one each time the mast is removed and restepped.

  • 13 Jun 2016 13:29
    Reply # 4072347 on 3858224

    Jerry, I have some Fast Cast polyurethane resin from Easy Composites. I really don't think the hardness and flexibility matters too much for our use, though it might do if we had a flexible 3/4 rigged bermudan racing mast to support at deck level - which is why Spartite is flexible, I believe.

    Twice, now, I've taken out masts that have been set in place with polyurethane resin, and believe me, if the mast is parallel, the resin just ain't going to move, whether you apply release agent or not. You would have to cut it away to remove it, so it's better to treat it as permanent. That means that if you use it at step level, it must remain as part of the step, not on the mast, because obviously it won't draw out through the partners.

    A word of warning: if the fit in the tapered partners gets slack because the mast has risen a bit, there's a lot of grinding noise. Annoying, not dangerous, but make sure the mast is very well held down.

    I used the chopped strands that are about 6mm long.

  • 13 Jun 2016 11:23
    Reply # 4072228 on 4058034
    David Tyler wrote:

    The mast step and partners are now almost complete. The mast will have a heel plug with a tenon tapered at 5 degrees, smoothed and coated with release agent, and rigid polyurethane will be poured in through the hole and slot visible at the forward end of the step. Above decks, a deck ring for the mast coat has still to be added, and the conical hole for the mast has still to be faired and smoothed. Again, rigid polyurethane will be poured in. This obviates the need to get the step and partners exactly true with the centreline of the mast, and saves a lot of labour making wedges.

    David, exactly which polyurethane will you be using? Is it a truly rigid resin, eg for making solid castings or something more like Spartite? Suppliers such as MB Fibreglass list a whole range of these products with varying shore hardness and cure times but which is most suitable?

    Will the plugs permanently adhere to the mast or will you wax both mast and tapered surfaces to make the plugs removable from the mast?

    Also is the chopped glass used in your mast step the finely milled variety or the short 6mm long strand type?



  • 09 Jun 2016 18:46
    Reply # 4066260 on 4064517
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

    I know what you mean, David.

    The trick is to use kneepads and take frequent short breaks... 

    Good luck!
    Arne 

    I have two pairs (one for weekdays and one for Sunday best), but there's no cure for old age and creaking joints!
  • 09 Jun 2016 07:25
    Reply # 4065226 on 4064588
    Annie Hill wrote:Remind us how you decided to do the camber.
    I'm using a combination of hinged battens and barrel-cut. Either method on its own brings its own set of issues if a camber of 10% is aimed at; but used in combination, a little of one and a little of the other, each set of issues diminishes in importance. Hinges alone, with a total of 20 degrees articulation or more -  large changes in direction, "corners" for the air to go around, possibility of hinges popping apart by wedging action. Barrel-cut alone - difficult to avoid wrinkles and creasing, and broad seaming or darts are needed. My hinges have two double cones with a half-angle of 4 degrees, 16 degrees in total, and my panels have a depth of convexity on their top and bottom edges of only 43mm in 3380mm.
    Last modified: 09 Jun 2016 07:27 | Anonymous member
  • 08 Jun 2016 23:03
    Reply # 4064593 on 4064517
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

    I know what you mean, David.

    The trick is to use kneepads and take frequent short breaks... These days I am rigging Ingeborg, and that is also a sure way of discovering new muscles and joints...

    Good luck!
    Arne 

    Hmm - I get the impression that Arne likes books as well as boats!
  • 08 Jun 2016 22:59
    Reply # 4064588 on 4064373
    David Tyler wrote:

    This week is Sailmaking Week.

    Monday - marked out and cut six panels and the yard sleeve.

    Tuesday and Wednesday - seamed the four lower panels together, with their batten pockets and luff and leech tablings, and made a start on seaming panel five.

    For those new to sailmaking: it's enjoyable, but hard on the back and knees; factor into your costings a sufficient quantity of muscle relaxant. It's the Eskdale Beer Festival this weekend...

    Oh David, what fun!  Remind how you decided to do the camber.

    The Eskdale Beer Festival sounds like something not to be missed.  Ulverston had a fine brewery when I was a lass, but I'm not sure if it still exists.  However, no doubt others have arisen to take its place.  Have a good time!

  • 08 Jun 2016 21:35
    Reply # 4064517 on 3858224
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I know what you mean, David.

    The trick is to use kneepads and take frequent short breaks... These days I am rigging Ingeborg, and that is also a sure way of discovering new muscles and joints...

    Good luck!
    Arne 

  • 08 Jun 2016 19:53
    Reply # 4064373 on 3858224

    This week is Sailmaking Week.

    Monday - marked out and cut six panels and the yard sleeve.

    Tuesday and Wednesday - seamed the four lower panels together, with their batten pockets and luff and leech tablings, and made a start on seaming panel five.

    For those new to sailmaking: it's enjoyable, but hard on the back and knees; factor into your costings a sufficient quantity of muscle relaxant. It's the Eskdale Beer Festival this weekend...

  • 05 Jun 2016 10:34
    Reply # 4058034 on 3858224

    The mast step and partners are now almost complete. The mast will have a heel plug with a tenon tapered at 5 degrees, smoothed and coated with release agent, and rigid polyurethane will be poured in through the hole and slot visible at the forward end of the step. Above decks, a deck ring for the mast coat has still to be added, and the conical hole for the mast has still to be faired and smoothed. Again, rigid polyurethane will be poured in. This obviates the need to get the step and partners exactly true with the centreline of the mast, and saves a lot of labour making wedges.

       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

                                                              Site contents © the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software