junk rig for a sailing canoe

  • 01 Feb 2022 09:10
    Reply # 12487428 on 12448440
    Deleted user

    Thanks for that clarification  Arne,  Very much appreciated!

    Guy

  • 31 Jan 2022 22:26
    Reply # 12468890 on 12448440
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Hm,
    Guy’s shown junksail, below,  surely is not designed by me, although it may resemble one of mine from a distance. When people who are used to western lugsails draw their first JR, they tend to tie the halyard on the JR in the same position on the yard as for the lug. That doesn’t work.

    Now I realise that I haven’t been very precise when telling how the yard should sit on a JR, so tonight I produced a two-page afterthought, which I put at the end of Chapter 3 of TCPJR.
    I hope that makes sense: http://goo.gl/u9LupX


    Arne


    Last modified: 01 Feb 2022 06:26 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 31 Jan 2022 21:49
    Reply # 12467764 on 12448440

    Not sure of this thread is still active, I am in the throws of building a folding inflatable dinghy with an origami split junk rig complete with single sheeting.  It is a grand experiment, and I am using 3/4" and 1-1/2" webbing, white tarp, white duct tape, 1/4" grommets and 1/8" low stretch poly line.  I am currently assembling the sail, which has a 5* deadrise, aprox. 1:1 aspect ratio and an area of 4 sq m or 43 sq ft.  It is tapered luff and leach toward the top, and I am using one piece battens out of 3/4"x3/4' clear fir.  It is, as I said, a grand experiment.  It will also have a built in sail catcher, a mast the is in two pieces (1-5/8" tube, with a 1-1/2" inner sleeve 12" long, and I plan on shock chording the two pieces giving me a total length of 12'.  I can always cut it down if I do not need that much height for a good angle between the top sheave and the sling point.  Instead of using parrels, I am going to attempt to use tied loops of line, or webbing with grommets, attached to the horrizontal batten web ( 1-1/2") to hold the sail battens against the mast and fix their position for and aft  so it can rotate around the mast for transportation and brailing up against the mast.  This will be important for storing the sail bundle with the mast, for transportation and storage.  I plan on having the mast and sail fit into the sail bundle, in the sail catcher.  Wheewe!  That was a mouthful!  My house has turned into a sail loft and boatworks!  I have a sail making and grommet station in the basement, the living room has three camping tables and a sheet of plywood with the boat layout on it and I have a wood working shop and a dome for outside, messy work.  That is it for now, to work!  The sun is shining and I am getting bleary eyed from watching the fall of the Canadian government's draconian mandates in the age of Omicron.  Cheers from the west coast of Canada!

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    Last modified: 01 Feb 2022 23:24 | Anonymous member
  • 31 Jan 2022 13:19
    Reply # 12452375 on 12448440
    Deleted user

    Thanks for that David.  On the subject of avoiding tangles - what is the minimum of string one might think to get away with? David has suggested a main sheet attached at four points. But what of the various hauling parrels? Or is it just a case of get on with it and see what works for me? 


  • 31 Jan 2022 11:31
    Reply # 12449073 on 12448440

    My experience with two-masted rigs is with bigger boats, but yes, the cockpit does turn into a rat's nest at times, and I would guess that in a gust, you might find it troublesome to find the right rope's end to ease away. I'd go for one low AR sail, with four sheeted points.

    In dinghy rigs, I've used 16mm GRP pultruded tube successfully. Yes, the battens should be as stiff as possible, but it's possible to make them too light in a small boat, so that they don't drop readily. If GRP tube is not available, then thin walled aluminium will be fine, probably 16mm - 20mm diameter.

    It's not possible to make the yard too light; even in carbon fibre it will be heavy enough to drop readily, so this is where some weight saving is useful, in a light and tender boat.

  • 31 Jan 2022 11:10
    Message # 12448440
    Deleted user

    Hi - I sail a waterlust sailing canoe, with outriggers, from Bergen in Norway.  The boat is great fun, currently set up with the 'stock' balanced lug yawl rig.  

    I am contemplating building a junk rig - mostly drawn by the speed and ease of reefing. It's important on a sailing canoe to be able to adjust the rig quickly to the conditions to avoid a swim. (sometimes cold round here). 

    So a few questions - I think I will have to ditch the mizzen if I am not to get myself tied up in the mainsheet at every tack or gybe. Do any small boat sailors here have any experience with this issue or am I making it up?  It would be nice to keep the rig low, and I do like my mizzen, but I suspect we will end up with a big string spaghetti. 

    The other question I have is regarding batten stiffness - how important is it that the battens are very stiff? I will want to keep rig weight down as much as possible - but without getting into carbon tubes - I can see that I am going to end up with a bit of flex - if I went for either thin aluminium, or laminated pine. Is this generally ok?

    in the suggested sail plan used one from Arne's - with low aspect ratio and took a panel out of it. 

    fair winds, 

    Guy 

    4 files
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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