Conversion Westerly 22

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  • 13 Oct 2018 18:50
    Reply # 6720684 on 6720447
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Frank wrote:

    I have done a complete drawing with 7 panels. So far everything looks good to me, what's your opinion? Thanks again for your help, it's really appreciated!


    Frank

    Your sail looks good in my eyes, except for one thing  -  the way it is tilted forward. I have been careful to rig my latest sails with a vertical leech, or even leaning a bit aft. This, combined with avoiding battens protruding from the leech, has ensured that the sheets never catch the battens or boom in a gybe, or when tacking.

    Now I took the liberty and grabbed a sail from my stack of master sails (AR=1.85), and then crimped and superimposed it onto your rig, so you can see what I mean.

    I know that Hasler and McLoed used to tilt their sails forward, but after having sailed with a sail this way, I now try to avoid it, if I can.

    Anyway, good luck!

    Arne


    Last modified: 13 Oct 2018 18:52 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 13 Oct 2018 11:19
    Reply # 6720467 on 6285145

    All good, Frank. I can't see anything that I'd want to change.

  • 13 Oct 2018 10:22
    Reply # 6720447 on 6718465
    Anonymous wrote:

    Yes, the seven panel sail, the third drawing, looks sound, sensible and seamanlike to me.

    That's encouraging, thank you :)

    I have done a complete drawing with 7 panels. So far everything looks good to me, what's your opinion? Thanks again for your help, it's really appreciated!

  • 11 Oct 2018 20:43
    Reply # 6718465 on 6285145

    Yes, the seven panel sail, the third drawing, looks sound, sensible and seamanlike to me.

    The six panel sail would look better if the lower three panels were made wider - somewhere between the first and second drawings.

    Last modified: 11 Oct 2018 20:47 | Anonymous member
  • 11 Oct 2018 20:29
    Reply # 6718443 on 6285145

    That is a good point I think. The transitional panel with the altered angles doesn't look quiet right because of the luff width. After that I had the idea to just use 3 head panels. I scratched my head and couldn't find any cons then the more weight from the extra batten and the more work sewing another panel. But I bet that there is another drawback. If not I would go with the plan with 7 panels.

  • 09 Oct 2018 08:59
    Reply # 6714123 on 6285145

    Frank,
    With a low AR sail like this, I would certainly adopt a transitional panel, the third one from the top, so as to make the top two panels a little smaller. Try rotating the top sheeted batten by 10˚ or so, and the topmost batten by 5˚ or so. This doesn't affect the amount of batten stagger, but does even out the lengths of the leeches and the areas of the upper panels. 

  • 07 Oct 2018 12:39
    Reply # 6710668 on 6285145
    Now with the forthcoming winter we have done most of the epoxy work and did a final measurement of the mast position with the finished partners. Unfortunately the CE needs to be 30cm more aft compared to the first drawings. This gives a lower aspect ratio which I tried to compensate a little bit with wider lower panels because it looked a little bit inelegant and we'll have a too long pole anyway. The sail area would be 25m² which is 13% more than the original BR area. 


    So this could be some sort of final sail plan or at least we are nearly there. Does anyone have any concerns or would you do something different? 
    Last modified: 07 Oct 2018 12:40 | Anonymous member
  • 12 Aug 2018 20:38
    Reply # 6526156 on 6285145

    We are now nearly done with the mast step and partner. Not that bad for the first time I think.

  • 23 Jul 2018 20:45
    Reply # 6394348 on 6393609
    Anonymous wrote:

     A slightly heavier mast may help to soften the motion of the boat when at anchor. If the mast is too light it leads to a much jerkier action when at anchor. 

    The downside of a heavier mast is that it is more difficult to raise it. This could be a significant factor if your boat is trailed regularly and has to be rigged and derigged on a regular basis.

    All the best with the project, David.

    Thank you David! We don't want to trailer the boat that often. So that sounds good.


    Anonymous wrote:

    Have you any idea what the existing mast and rigging weigh? Your new sail will probably be lighter than the existing mainsail and genoa and you presently have a hefty boom (and maybe some poles).

    I think you are right. Never thought about to weigh the old mast, that would eliminate the concerns probably easily :)



    Anonymous wrote:

    Weaverbird, of similar size, has a 165mm/76mm x 3mm tapered tube for a mast, and (bare) it weighs 36Kg. In comparison, I weighed the old bermudan mast, including standing and running rigging and a furling headstay, and that was about 41Kg. So yes, the 177mm tube is just a little larger and heavier than strictly necessary, but not unduly so.

    When I converted Tystie from a ketch back to a sloop, the mizzen mast, which is 177mm dia, was passed over to Rob and Maren to use in converting Blondie to junk rig. She is only 21.5ft long, and she seems to be quite happy, so I think your Westerly 22 would be, too.

    Thanks again for your answer, David. I think we will take the pole and start building the mast step and partners ...


  • 23 Jul 2018 14:48
    Reply # 6393609 on 6285145

    Weaverbird, of similar size, has a 165mm/76mm x 3mm tapered tube for a mast, and (bare) it weighs 36Kg. In comparison, I weighed the old bermudan mast, including standing and running rigging and a furling headstay, and that was about 41Kg. So yes, the 177mm tube is just a little larger and heavier than strictly necessary, but not unduly so.

    When I converted Tystie from a ketch back to a sloop, the mizzen mast, which is 177mm dia, was passed over to Rob and Maren to use in converting Blondie to junk rig. She is only 21.5ft long, and she seems to be quite happy, so I think your Westerly 22 would be, too.

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