Converting a Westerly Nimrod to Junk Rig

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  • 26 Apr 2017 21:42
    Reply # 4785556 on 4550835

    If anyone still following this....? I have now picked up the completed sail from David Tyler and it looks very well made. Many thanks again, David, it was good to be able to collect it with our visitors and go for a good long walk around your part of the county. Now picked up my turned wooden end stops, trimmed the battens and now looking for some suitable screws - short with a broad enough head - to attach the sail. 

    Also now making a list for the rigging, having drawn, measured and estimated as best I can. Still not quite sure how to make the parrels and attach, but most likely straps with buckles as David suggested. I am very busy at work at the moment but trying to do something each day to progress the project even if just a little bit. The boat now back in position next to the lake so I've still got my space and I hope it will be soon that I get to make that big square hole in the deck for the tabernacle.  

  • 30 Mar 2017 18:10
    Reply # 4702718 on 4550835

    I was puzzling over what to use for fendering for the yard. As I use a sleeve for the yard, it has to be something that can be sewn on, and it ought to match the cream colour of the cloth. I hit upon the idea of buying a leather belt blank, 3mm thick and available in widths up to 3in and in various colours as well as natural.

  • 23 Mar 2017 19:30
    Reply # 4685931 on 4550835

    Many thanks David, for the progress report and also for the revised mast angle. I can level the boat using the jockey wheel adjustment then get that right. Mast tube now arrived and Richard and I are getting some hardwood for the tabernacle. I now need to look more closely at the sheeting perhaps.

  • 20 Mar 2017 22:10
    Reply # 4678843 on 4550835

    I now have all the individual panels made up, with their tablings folded and sewn, and today I've been preparing the batten and yard pockets. As soon as my own sail is out of the way and back aboard, I can begin to assemble the panels and pockets in my living room "sail loft".

    I've made a more accurate assessment of the CE of the original bermudan rig and the weaverbird-pattern sail, and I think that you only need a forward rake of 2 degrees, with the heel of the tabernacle in the same place as the heel of the old compression post. The image I have of the bermudan rig shows an aft rake of 6 degrees, so don't let that confuse you. Try to get an accurate horizontal or vertical surface - perhaps the cabin sole or main bulkhead, and measure 88 or 2 degrees to establish the mast line.

  • 20 Mar 2017 21:04
    Reply # 4678719 on 4550835

    Many thanks David for showing me how it is going. This is very interesting - and exciting to see the first panel taking shape. It also helps me to appreciate how much work there is going to be done in the whole sail! Mast tube should arrive tomorrow or Wednesday so we will be able to start on that at last.

    Looking again at your drawing I make it a 5 degree lean forward on the mast so I will work on that for the tabernacle angle below the cabin top unless I hear from you otherwise. I had a discussion with Richard Oates recently which led us to wonder if bamboo would be a cheaper and acceptable alternative to the fibre tubes that I bought? Any thoughts on this welcome.

  • 19 Mar 2017 17:09
    Reply # 4676521 on 4550835

    Sounds good, David.

    Here's an album containing a few photos of the sailmaking process at the stage reached so far.

  • 19 Mar 2017 14:25
    Reply # 4676282 on 4550835

    My friend Richard Oates and I are both now going ahead with very similar projects and I have now ordered the aluminium tubes for us both: 5m of 4inch 10SWG tube. When it comes I will look at making the top mast out of a section of old spruce, but if that doesn't work Richard is going to help me make a hollow top mast from scratch because his will be much the same! 

  • 15 Mar 2017 09:48
    Reply # 4668000 on 4550835

    I'm in the middle of making the Nimrod sail. I've uploaded the drawings of the panels to Members' Area>Your files>Drawings>Westerly Nimrod. They show how it's possible to cut the cloth for a sail within a very small space, if CAD is used to draw and dimension each individual piece of cloth. 

    I'm using standard width sailcloth, at 92cm. This is cream-coloured Hayward's Sunwing 5.4 oz/sq yd, the very last of the stock of ends of rolls that "Englishseadog" on eBay were holding. It's a pleasure to use. (I also bought what they had of tan coloured Sunwing at the same weight, for some future sailmaking project).

    Some points to note:

    • I've arranged the cloth so that there is 115mm extra at the luff and leech to form a rolled tabling with a width of 62mm. It needn't have been quite this wide, but 3 1/2 cloths will cover the width of the panels plus this extra allowance.
    • The camber is to be added by broadseaming. The edges of each cloth are cut straight. The inner limit of the broadseaming is marked by small arcs. During seaming up the panels, the length of seam between these arcs and the edges will be stuck down with basting tape such that the the edges of the cloths are in a straight line.
    • I'm using correct sailmaking practice and keeping the threadline parallel with the luff and leech. This is straightforward in panels 1, 2 and 3. In panels 4, 5 and 6, there is a mitre between the two cloths at the luff. This ensures that there is no appreciable bias loading on the cloth.
  • 04 Mar 2017 09:18
    Reply # 4647281 on 4550835
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Jami, I found a website with a conversion calculator from SWG to mm and mm2 on it.

    Just remember, there is something called AWG, American Wire Gage as well, which is different from the British(?) SWG. The only time I have met these units in my working life has been when dealing with thin solder tin wires (working with electronics).

    I still struggle with finding any rational reason for these units  -  and yes, now I checked my solder tin dispenser, made in Holland. No SWG or AWG on it, just 1mm...


  • 04 Mar 2017 08:51
    Reply # 4647250 on 4550835

    Ok, thanks. In my conversion I'm having difficulties in trying to decide between 3 and 4 mm tube. This 10swg is in between...

    It's also interesting to notice that the stock tube lenghts are totally different here: no matter what the diameter, the length sold seems to be 6 meters.

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       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
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